You can’t talk about Miami without mentioning South Beach. It’s impossible to talk about South Beach without mentioning the Art Deco Historic District, also known as Miami Beach Architectural District.
The southern part of Miami Beach, just opposite Downtown, is the most popular with tourists and travelers, not just for its beautiful beach, but also and above all for its hotels, nightclubs, cinemas, and other buildings built in Art Deco style between the late twenties and forties. Not everyone knows, but Miami has the highest concentration in the USA of buildings built in this ornamental European architectural style revisited here in a tropical style.
In this article I want to provide some historical information about Art Deco in Miami, with a full itinerary in search of the most interesting examples of this style along the 3-4 streets of South Beach where these buildings are concentrated: Ocean Drive, Collins Avenue, Washington Avenue and, best of all, Española Way (where the Mediterranean Spanish Revival style reigns supreme).
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Art Deco in Miami: a bit of history
Prior to 1926 – the year of the “Great Miami Hurricane,” one of the most devastating hurricanes in Florida and U.S. history – there were a few modest wooden homes for families in South Beach. It was a fairly remote area where only coconut plantations had existed since 1870. The hurricane razed all the buildings to the ground, but this led to a brilliant idea: to transform this “neighborhood-wreck” into a luxury tourist area, building a large number of hotels in an all-American version of the Art Deco style so much in vogue on the other side of the Atlantic Ocean.
This was during the years of the Exposition Internationale des Artes Décoratifs in Paris, during which what had first emerged in the 1920s as an artistic and architectural trend countered the Art Nouveau “good taste”, a modernist current that took root in Paris and Europe from the end of the 19th century until the First World War, was made official.
The Art Deco style contrasted a totally different kind of aesthetics to the elegant and graceful designs and sinuous forms of the modernist model. It was inspired by rationalism and abstract geometrism: the new luxury architecture was basically a simplification of forms, using completely new solutions or recovering artistic elements from ancient cultures far removed from modern Europe (African, Greek, Egyptian, pre-Columbian).
The new ornamental details of facades and interiors involved elongated windows, mosaic, ziqqurat, zigzag and checkered shapes, nautical, floral and animal motifs simplified (plants, fountains, water jets), decorative horizontal and squared bands (the so-called eyebrows), etc. In Miami this trend was revisited in a style that was defined Tropical Art Deco, characterized by the massive use of pastel colors in bright extravagant shades and the use of decorative elements taken from a tropical context (flamingos, palms).
At the end of the Thirties and throughout the Forties, the idea of rationalism in architecture took root in Miami and other fashionable US cities (including New York): this is the period of Streamlining Modern (also called Art Moderne), whose main feature was the search for movement and aerodynamics of buildings. In addition to some of the characteristics already listed, there was a tendency to create vertical lines, sharp and futuristic shapes, squared roofs, corner and porthole windows, curved corners.
The Miami Design Preservation League, established in the 1970s, helps to preserve the buildings and the historical testimony of such an important period for the city of Miami. Today, thanks to the work of this foundation, as you stroll through the historic district, you can enjoy looking at the facades and interiors (where possible) for these and other ornamental elements, which will make your tour a pleasure for the eyes.
Miami Art Deco District Self Guided Tour: Itinerary and Things to Do
Our self-guided walking tour in search of the best Art Deco buildings in South Beach could only start from Ocean Drive, the street in Miami that – thanks to the contribution of cinema, with Miami Vice and Scarface and others – is a part of everyone’s imagination. While the beach and Lummus Park stretch out along the waterfront, a long line of colorful hotels and clubs stretch out on the other side of the street, with neon signs caressed by waving palm trees.
Please note: there are so many interesting Art Deco hotels that it would be impossible to mention them all. The ones I’m pointing out are the most famous, but along the way you may see others, each with some element that may strike you. Almost all of the hotels listed in this itinerary also have a link to Booking: this way you can get an idea of the services and see some photos of the exterior and the interior and see if it could be the right accommodation for you. Be careful though! Read the guests’ reviews carefully: in some cases new managements live off past reputation and the rooms may not be worth the money they cost. To get some specific tips, read my in-depth article on where to stay in South Beach.
Art Deco in Ocean Drive
The interesting stretch of Ocean Drive begins to the south at the intersection with 5th St., but don’t be in a hurry to get started: it’s a quick jaunt into the South of Fifth (SoFi) District of Miami Beach to reach our southernmost stop, the St. Augustine Hotel, at 347 Washington Ave. Immaculate and compact, it displays some of the style’s signature features: the square, geometric lines and the floral motifs on the main vertical element of the facade.
Return to Ocean Drive and begin your walk to the first hotel, what was once the famous Park Central (now The Celino South Beach). Built in 1937 by Henry Hohauser, this blue-textured hotel stands out vertically with tall windows divided into small square modules. The terraces of the central section are embellished with arrow-shaped decorations, inviting you to look up. Continue north, leaving behind the Beacon Hotel and the Avalon, in the direction of Colony Hotel (736 Ocean Dr), a historic building dated 1935: how can you not be fascinated by the flashy central element in the shape of an inverted T, bearing three neon lights (one on each side) with the name of the hotel? To be seen at night!
On the next block, pay particular attention to the Waldorf Towers (860 Ocean Dr), built by visionary Chicago architect Albert Anis in 1937 and recently renovated. In addition to its bright orange color, one is struck by the contrasts between the rigid symmetry of the facade and the curvilinear shape of the tower/beacon above it. The facade also continues along 9th St that crosses Ocean Drive, thanks to the classic rounded corners that allow continuity of the checkerboard decoration.
A little further north, at 940 Ocean Drive, we find the iconic Breakwater Hotel designed and built in 1936 by Anton Skislewicz, one of Miami’s least prolific architects: we notice colors and shapes typical of the nautical universe, and a marked search for verticality and aerodynamics in the central tower with the hotel’s name. Immediately next door, at number 960, is the Edison Hotel, which, unlike the previous one, since its foundation in 1935 chose not to make too much use of neon and bold aerodynamic shapes, preferring hypnotic geometric patterns. The central section is interesting: three pairs of windows are inscribed in a sort of elongated arch divided in half by a curved column.
In addition to those from the Visitor Center, there are also other tours that are ideal for those who want to be accompanied on the tour: here is one with good reviews: Art Deco guided walking tour.
We proceed to 1052 Ocean Dr, where we find the Congress Hotel, nowadays just a store. The building, smaller in size than other competitors, has classic decorations from the Art Deco period, with “eyebrows” on the windows and water features stylized in a geometric key, a sort of rationalist parody of Art Nouveau.
Above, under the squared roof, you can see textures typical of Mayan art. Shortly after the intersection with 11th St, we come to one of the most symbolic buildings of all South Beach: Casa Casuarina. What was once the home of Gianni Versace (he was assassinated here in 1997) stands out from the other hotels because it looks more like Villa Vizcaya than an Art Deco building: in fact, it sports an elegant and austere Mediterranean Revival style, replicated by the Alcázar de Colón. This palatial building was built in 1930 under the initiative of the architect Alden Freeman who wanted to use coral stone, a very different material from those used for other hotels in the area. Today this villa with patio and astronomical observatory (!) houses some luxurious suites and a sophisticated restaurant.
After this exception, we see the rule of Ocean Drive confirmed: at number 1144 you will find Victor Hotel with its brazenly pink sign and its tall geometric structure with a vertical line from where long rows of windows with sills branch off, and at the end a porthole to shake up the pattern. The next hotel is The Tides, built in 1936 and designed by architect L. Murray Dixon. When I saw it, it was under renovation, but I still noticed the remarkable height of the structure: I was not surprised when I read that from its foundation until 1938 it was the tallest building in Miami! Take a moment to observe the lower part of the facade, embellished with large blocks of coral from the Keys.
Continuing your walk northwards, you will undoubtedly be dazzled by the yellow facade of the Leslie Hotel (1244 Ocean Dr), in full Tropical Deco style. The small size of this not-so-restored 1937 hotel makes it more intimate than the Tides; it struck me as joyful and dynamic despite its geometric facade, and the style of the sign. Next to the Leslie stands another South Beach institution: the Carlyle, now a vacation rental complex. Built in 1939, the building reflects the rationalist influences of Art Moderne, but diluted with some floral patterns on the upper part of the facade. The Carlyle was made famous by the cinema: Bad Boys 2, Random Hearts, Pronto, The Birdcage and Scarface are some of the films that have made it immortal.
A contemporary of the Carlyle, the Cardozo Hotel at 1300 Ocean Dr is the work of the aforementioned Henry Hohauser, a real reference point for Art Deco in Miami. You will be struck by the rounded facade, inspired by the bumper of a Studebaker and enriched by circular decorative elements that may recall pre-Columbian art. The use of coral stone also stands out here, offering a particular shade of color.
At 1320 Ocean Drive, there is perhaps my favorite hotel: the Cavalier Hotel. Designed by Roy F. France in 1936, this hotel is an Art Deco masterpiece that mixes the geometry of the structure with the vintage eclecticism of stucco decorations, including nautical elements and references to Aztec art in an incredible way. At 1400 Ocean Drive, there is the Winter Haven (1939), with an elegant profile despite the simplicity of its forms: each window is shaded by an eyebrow sill, which gives a touch of vaguely futuristic design to the structure. The itinerary on Ocean Drive concludes with the last two hotels on our itinerary, the McAlpine and the Ocean Plaza (now under Hilton management). I especially like the first one, which was the work of the architect Dixon (The Tides): the structure is still perfectly preserved and allows us to enjoy the perfect symmetries of the eclectic brightly colored facade (green and orange).
Art Deco in Collins Avenue and Washington Avenue
Our itinerary on Ocean Drive Art Deco ended on the north side of Lummus Park, with the McAlpine hotels and the Ocean Plaza. We turn left on 14th until we cross Collins Avenue, which is parallel to Ocean Drive. Since some of our stops are located farther north, we’ll make our way to the farthest buildings and then back to finish the itinerary.
From Española Way to 21st St (northbound)
A few steps along Collins Avenue, you will find the intersection with Española Way. Before you take it for a short detour, draw your attention to the remarkable façade of Señor Frog’s bar, a chain that took the place of a historic Collins Avenue establishment, Jerry’s Famous Deli. The sign has changed, but the structure of the store has remained the same.
After taking a few photos of this curious corner, continue on to Española Way which, as anticipated, is a Hispanic happy island within the Art Deco district. The buildings facing onto this paseo are in Mediterranean Revival style, but they are not as flashy as those on Ocean Drive. If anything, it’s the atmosphere that seems completely different: conceived in the early 1920s and opened in 1925, this area of South Beach must have had a truly bohemian feel, thanks partly to the presence of many artists. Today it is full of clubs, bars and restaurants. Have you walked through it? Well, on your way back to Collins Avenue, watch out for the intersection of Española Way and Washington Avenue: you’ll see the Cameo Nightclub, once a historic South Beach theater built in 1935 to a design by Robert E. Collins, at the height of the Art Deco ferment. If you like punk and hardcore, know that the Ramones, among others, performed here.
Back on Collins Avenue, head to 1671 Collins Ave, where you’ll find a trio of exceptional hotels: the Sagamore, the National Hotel and the Delano Hotel. The most faithful to the dictates of Art Deco is the National, built in 1939 by Roy France. At the top of the 18-story high central tower is a dome that reminds me of those in the Greek churches of Santorini.
The Sagamore is most striking for its iconic neon sign, but it’s at its best inside: there’s an inspiring contemporary art exhibit in the lobby. The Delano, you’ll understand from the futuristic design of the Streamline-style façade, is a later building: in fact, it was opened in 1947 on the initiative of architect Robert Swartburg, and at the time it was the tallest building in Miami (again, it’s worth snooping in the beautiful lobby). The Delano is located at the crossroads with 17th St… well, you cross the street and go 250 feet: at the intersection with James Ave you will see a little known Art Deco gem: the Cadet Hotel , built in 1941. Clark Gable stayed here when he was in the American Army. Even further north, at the intersection with 18th St, with its rich tropical garden and rounded terraces, you’ll find the historic Raleigh, Collins Avenue’s flagship (in early 2019 under renovation).
If you’re not interested in art, you can also head back to explore the south side of Collins Avenue. If you do have time and energy, however, continue north to the intersection with 21st St: here you’ll find an art park, Collins Park, dotted with installations and artwork. What does this have to do with Art Deco? At the end of the park we come to the Bass Museum of Art, a squat, massive building that has undergone many changes over the years: however, its Art Deco past is evident from the bas-reliefs on the facade, depicting nautical scenes and tropical themes. The original building was designed and built by Gustav Bohland in the early thirties.
In the same square, at the intersection of 21st St and Park Ave (so on the left when looking at the museum’s facade), you’ll find the Plymouth Hotel, a perfect example of what you mean by Streamlining Modern.
From Española Way to 5th St (southbound)
Let’s take Española Way (basically Collins Avenue at the end of Ocean Drive) as a reference point and walk south, looking for the best Art Deco hotels with a few short detours on the parallel Washington Avenue.
Our first stop is at the corner of Collins Avenue and 14th St.: here we find the building that was once the Commodore Hotel, in nautical style, designed by Henry Hohauser (1936). Today it is a bar-café. Continue on 14th St. to Washington Avenue: at 1300 is the circular tower of the Miami Beach Postal Service, a typical example of the Depression Modern architectural style, a more sober and institutional variation of the 1940s Art Deco designed for public buildings. You can enter to see the murals depicting scenes relating to the history of the Conquistadors, and the dome with esoteric tones.
Go back onto Collins Avenue, because in the block between 13th and 12th there are two iconic Collins Avenue hotels, at the height of the masterpieces of Ocean Drive: The Webster and Marlin Hotel. The Webster (1220 Collins Ave), now a clothing store, was designed by Hohauser in 1939: the facade is tripartite, but it’s the central part that attracts attention thanks to the bright colors and the decorations of the floral frame. The Marlin Hotel (1200 Collins Ave), designed by Murray Dixon, opened in 1939. This hotel has few rivals when it comes to design: it impresses with the harmony with which the central part of the ziqqurat-style facade – beautifully decorated and colored in yellow, pink and blue – is reconciled with the rounded corners of the two side bands.
Continue southward to 1001 Collins Ave: here, facing 10th St., the Essex House Hotel (1938) awaits, designed by Hohauser in a style later defined as “Nautical Moderne”: in fact, it could remind you of a ship, with a funnel on which the name of the hotel shines. At the intersection of 10th St. and parallel Washington Avenue there is another place that deserves a mention: the Wolfsonian-Florida International University Museum. This large and not very elegant building in Mediterranean Revival style, dated 1926, is a museum that collects artifacts and artistic works from both America and Europe.
Head back up Collins Avenue to see the last two hotels in the Art Deco District: the first is at 901 Collins Ave, called Sherbrooke. The original building dates back to 1948 and is striking for its sign with the name and above all for the terraces that follow the movement of the red and sinuous lines at the corner of 9th St. Instagram worthy! Equally worthy of a visit is The Tony Hotel (801 Collins Ave) formerly known as the Tiffany Hotel, designed by Murray Dixon in 1939. Already from the outside, our eye is caught by the Streamlining style spire that sits atop the facade. While you’re at it, go inside and climb to the roof to get a closer look. There are arrows in the lobby floor: once upon a time, following them led to a speakeasy.
Art Deco Itinerary Map
Where to Stay?
As mentioned, not all of the hotels listed are as cozy as they are beautiful to look at. If you missed the link, read my recommendations below related to both South Beach and all other Miami neighborhoods.
