Skagway is the most “touristy” town (or rather village) in Alaska. Born for the gold rush, like Juneau, Fairbanks, and many other Alaskan cities, this town is now the symbol of the frantic search that brought thousands of hopeful men to leave their homes during the nineteenth and twentieth centuries and set out for the inaccessible territories of the north.
Imagine the set of an old western movie, with the saloon in the center of the street, surrounded by wooden houses each of a different color. Then add numerous cruise ships huddled along the shore, each holding twice as many passengers as the small local population, opening their doors all at once and letting chaotic crowds of international tourists swarm onto the quay.
If you are a solitary, adventurous traveler, or if you have chosen Alaska as your destination because of its reputation as a wilderness, the atmosphere here may seem a bit artificial. But that’s just how Skagway is, maintained over the years as it was during the gold rush. Everything here speaks of the adventures and misadventures of prospectors heading to the Klondike, and it’s from here that one of the state’s biggest attractions begins: the White Pass and Yukon Route, which we’ve included in our Top 10 Alaska for no reason.
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How to get to Skagway
Although it overlooks the Inside Passage and is a very small town, Skagway is more easily accessible than other towns in the region, such as Juneau or Sitka. Take a look at the alternatives for traveling here.
- Airplane. As in all of Alaska, planes are the fastest way to get around. It makes you smile that, looking at the map, the airport runway is as long as the whole town. Serving this airport is the Air Excursion company, which connects it to Juneau. Skagway is also connected to the capital by the Alaska Seaplanes service.
- Ship. Although slower than by air, sea transportation is ideal for getting between the different locations in the Inside Passage. Daily ferries from the Alaska Marine Highway System connect Skagway with Haines and Juneau, and from there to other locations.
- Cars. Only two roads connect the southeastern region of Alaska with Canada (and from Canada, with the rest of Alaska). The Haines Highway, which has its terminus in the town of Haines, and the Klondike Highway, which goes to Skagway. If you are traveling on the road, Skagway will be the only town overlooking the Inside Passage that you can reach by land, without having to embark the car on a ferry. It’s also easily included as a stop on an itinerary along the Alaska Highway, which connects Canada with the northern capital, Fairbanks.
Weather and temperatures
As I have already written in more detail in the article on when to go to Alaska, the southeastern coast of the state is the one with the mildest climate and Skagway is no exception. Here, the proximity of the sea to the great glaciers means that temperatures are fairly constant throughout the year, without an exaggerated temperature range.
The warmest months are June, July, and August: the average daytime temperature is close to 68° F, while at night it is around 50° F. May and September have slightly lower temperatures: highs are on average 57-59° F and the minimums 39-43° F. A sizeable difference can be seen in the mid-season: while in April there is an average high of 50° F and lows close to 32° F, October has maximums of 46-48 F° and minimums on average around 37° F.
In the spring you will find slightly warmer days, but cold nights, while in fall there is less difference in temperature between day and night. Winter, between November and March, is almost never too harsh and average temperatures are always quite close to 32° F. The coldest month, January, has average highs of 26-28° F and lows of 16-18° F: a much more bearable situation than in the Alaskan hinterland.
Skagway has less rainfall than Juneau, although there is not too much distance between these cities as the crow flies. In fact, only half of the annual rainfall is recorded here compared to the capital. In this sense, Skagway has characteristics similar to those of Mediterranean countries, with an average of 8 days of rain in the less rainy months (April to July) and 16-18 days in the wetter ones (September and October). However, your trip is unlikely to be limited to just Skagway, and while an umbrella may be superfluous here, there’s a greater likelihood that you’ll need to pull it out at nearby Inside Passage locations.
Attractions in the city
Skagway has two characteristics to bear in mind if you want to visit it: it’s really small, but at the same time it’s one of the most touristy places in the entire state. Let’s see together what are the main attractions to visit.
- Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park. Every visit should start from here, both because the visitor center is also located here, and because it is a free museum where you can start learning about the history of the gold rush, and why there is a human settlement here. You’ll be able to see an illustrative video about gold fever and an exhibit of vintage photos and old prospectors’ tools. You can also book tours there. (Address: 245 Broadway Street).
- Arctic Brotherhood Hall. This is believed to be the most photographed building in Alaska, and it’s not hard to believe. What was once the headquarters of the Brotherhood, a prospectors club, has a very unique feature: the facade is made up of about 9000 pieces of beached wood, collected by members of the brotherhood in 1899. Today, it is home to another visitor’s center, ideal for inquiring about hiking trails in the surrounding area. (Address: intersection of Broadway Street and 2nd Avenue).
- Mascot Saloon Museum. As the name suggests, this small, free museum is one of about 80 saloons that livened up Skagway in the late 1800s. Here you’re reminded of the fact that the town hasn’t always been a cheerful marina, but a century ago it had a reputation for being one of the most infamous places in Alaska. (Address: intersection of Broadway Street and 3rd Avenue).
- Skagway Museum. This museum is another reminder of the town’s turbulent past. It is located on the second floor of the old McCabe College. In addition to a fine collection of period objects, Tlingit artifacts and even a stuffed grizzly bear, the museum recounts some historical events such as the shooting (certified by the pages of the newspaper on July 15, 1898) in which the most fearsome gangster of the time, Jefferson Randolph Smith, otherwise known as ‘Soapy’, was killed. His grave and those of other historical figures are located at Gold Rush Cemetery & Reid Falls. (Address: intersection of Spring Street and 7th Avenue).
Gold Rush Railroad and Trails
As stated many times before, Skagway exists because of Klondike gold. This strategically located port allowed U.S. ships to get remarkably close to the great gold seam that filled prospectors with dreams. Today, there are two ways to relive the sensations experienced during the gold rush: hop aboard the scenic train or put on your hiking shoes and start walking.
White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad
The main reason why so many tourists land in Skagway every year is the White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad: Alaska’s most famous railroad. The vintage steam train that runs along the narrow-gauge railway towards the Canadian border is in itself a means of transport that arouses emotions, but what truly makes the difference is the panorama in which the 19 miles that separate Skagway from White Pass Summit, the 2864 feet-high pass that marks the state border, are immersed.
The round trip takes about 3 hours and the price of the ticket is not very cheap, but it is one of the experiences worth living during a trip to Alaska, to appreciate some of the most striking views and fully understand the troubled history. Along the way you’ll come across Gold Rush Cemetery and the Denver base, from where the Denver Glacier Trail starts.
Shortly after, the train passes one of the most evocative points: Rocky Point, from where Skagway and the sea in front of it can be seen from above. Black Cross Rock commemorates the two workers who were crushed under a block of granite of 90 tons due to the accidental explosion of a mine. Thirty-five people, as well as hundreds of pack horses, were killed during the construction of this complicated railroad.
In the second half of the journey you can admire the beautiful Bridal Veil Falls, and shortly after the train passes over the vertiginous bridge (1000 feet high) over the Glacier George, before entering the long tunnel that crosses the mountain. As you exit the tunnel, there is the most photographed point on the route, called Inspiration Point.
The train departs from the depot located at 231 2nd Avenue. On the official website you can check departure times.
Chilkoot Trail
A ride on the scenic train is a great experience for everyone, but if you like to walk, you’ll appreciate the Chilkoot Trail: the complex 33 mile trail that prospectors had to walk from Skagway to the mines. It’s estimated that over 30,000 prospectors walked this trail during the Gold Rush, and today, after being abandoned for a long time, it has become the main trail for those who want to discover the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park on foot.
It runs parallel to the above mentioned railroad, a few miles west, reaching the Klondike through the Chilkoot Pass, which with its 3500 feet of altitude is more difficult than the White Pass traveled by train. You can check trail conditions on the dedicated website and also get more detailed information in preparation for your walk.
Where to stay in Skagway
Skagway is really a very small town, so there aren’t many choices for an overnight stay. There are two main alternatives:
- Historic Skagway Inn. Restored in 2004, this 1897 inn was originally a brothel. If you still see female names associated with the rooms, well yes, these are the girls who once worked here. Fear not: today it’s a full-fledged hotel and the red-light past is now just a memory.
- Westmark Inn Skagway. It is the largest hotel in town, but has little of the big international hotel chains. Entering the lobby is like stepping back in time and the rooms are cozy and well furnished.
