In Alaska it is known as “the mountain”, but besides the majestic Mount McKinley (called Denali by the natives), the vast territory of Denali National Park contains many other surprises: over 9266 square miles of mountains, forests, and glaciers where man feels like an intruder in the kingdom of wolves and bears.
This is one of the main reasons why it is worth visiting Alaska, and it is no coincidence that we have included it at the top of our Top 10. Exploring it, however, is no walk in the park. To get an idea of how big this park is, it roughly corresponds to the area of Connecticut, Delaware, and Rhode Island combined.
16% of the park is covered by glaciers, which are also a major attractions for visitors. Alongside these giant expanses of ice, wildlife is the other main reason for such interest. The breathtaking landscapes do the rest.
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A brief history of the park
This protected area was created to preserve animals that were being threatened by gold rush settlers. While the native Athabascan people had based their livelihood on hunting for thousands of years, they had also been able to maintain a balance with the different animal species. The drastic increase in population after the discovery of gold in the early 1900s led to uncontrolled hunting.
So it was that a friend of President Roosevelt, Charles Sheldon, decided to set about creating a national park that would limit the slaughter of game. In 1917, President Woodrow Wilson signed the establishment of Mount McKinley National Park. In 1980, the park’s area had grown to the point of splitting off an inner area, called the Denali National Park Wilderness where stricter rules apply, and an outer area, the Denali National Preserve, which is more easily accessible and in which hunting is partially allowed.
How to get there
To get a complete view of this territory the only way is to get over your vertigo, climb into a small single-propeller airplane, and gaze downwards. Scenic flights, however, are quite expensive and not everyone can afford to buzz around the highest mountain in North America like a bee around a flower. But don’t despair, there are other ways to get to the park and see at least part of it.
- by train. Alaska’s only railway isn’t overlong, but it runs right on the edge of the nature preserve, and the Denali park depot station is across the street from the visitor center. Whether you’re based in Fairbanks or Anchorage, getting to the park by train is really convenient and from here you can hop aboard a shuttle bus to safely enter the wilderness.
- by car. If you have a rental car, you can choose to come here on four wheels. A glance at the map is enough to realize that there aren’t many alternatives: whether you leave from Anchorage or from Fairbanks, you have to take Highway no.3 (Parks Highway), which connects these two cities along the Denali reserve. If you are coming by car, I suggest you stop halfway. Coming from Fairbanks, stop in Healy: this village has little to see, but at the 49th State Brewing Co you can find the bus that was actually used for the movie ‘Into the Wild’ (unfortunately the real “Magic Bus” that was inside the park, due to the continuous calls for help from inexperienced tourists trying to reach this place, was permanently removed in June 2020). If you leave Anchorage, stop in Talkeetna: a village of 900 souls and log cabin-style houses, where you can taste musk ox burgers and go back in time many decades. Here you’ll also find the ranger base, where you can get information about the park and the routes to follow.
Best time to visit Denali
As you may have guessed, this type of area is not so easily visited throughout the year. Moreover, most of the park services remain closed to visitors for the winter months, when temperatures drop to -40° and snow cover everything. Our advice is to visit the park in the summer season, which runs roughly from the second half of May to mid-September.
As for the mid-seasons, every year is an unknown: usually, a couple of weeks in early May and late September are considered to be such, but it all depends on when the snow starts to fall (for autumn) and melt (for spring). If you’re heading to Denali during these uncertain weeks, check out this page on the official website, where the section of the Park Road still closed is highlighted.
If you can, choose June, July or August. In these months you will be able to enjoy the possibilities offered by the park, but be on guard: snow can fall in any month of the year and several times, white flakes have been seen in the middle of summer. In any case, take a look at the official website, to follow any updates, especially with regard to winter and mid-season.
Entrance and hours
The park is open all year round, but much of it cannot be visited freely during the winter. Bus and shuttle services only run in the summer season (May 20 to mid-September), and the visitor centers are also not open year-round.
- Denali National Park Visitor Center. This is the main visitor center, located at the entrance to the park, which is easily accessible by any means of transportation. For those who visit the park in the summer, it’s the place to start each visit. Here you can learn the basics about the park, find out about tours and hiking trails, and get permits to venture off the marked trails. The visitor center is open only from May through mid-September, daily from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m.
- Murie Science and Learning Center. Located within walking distance of the visitor center, just on the other side of the large parking lot, its purpose is to administer Northern Alaska’s national parks, as well as to do science promotion through workshops and activities for schools. It serves as the visitor center during the winter period. In winter (October 1-May 14), it is open daily from 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.; in summer (May 15-September 30) it is open only two hours each day: 1 to 3 p.m. It is closed on Christmas, New Year’s Day, and Thanksgiving.
- Eielson Visitor Center. This is the second visitor center in the park, located along Park Road about 66 miles from the entrance. Since it is located in the part of the park that is not accessible to private cars, it can only be reached by shuttle or guided tour buses. It is only open in the summer (June 1 to mid-September) every day from 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.
To enter the park, you must purchase a $15 admission ticket (free for children under 15) that is valid for 7 days. The entrance is free on some days of the year: you can check at this page. Admission does not include tours, camping, or other activities. If you have a national park pass, you can also use it here.
Visit Denali National Park
Being deliberately kept wild, Denali is more difficult to visit than other American parks. However, even tourists who are not equipped for hiking can enjoy at least part of the wonders it holds. The best place to start a visit is the Denali National Park Visitor Center, which is located just 1.5 miles from the park entrance. Whether you arrive by train or by car, enter the visitor center to find basic information about the park and its flora and fauna. Not far away, connected by shuttle, is the park’s kennel, where you can meet the rangers’ sled dogs.
From the visitor center, you’ll have to make a choice: go on a hike, by car, or by official shuttle. The latter is a great alternative to organized tours. The key difference is that bus tours include a guide on board and usually a meal. The much more basic and inexpensive shuttles do not have a guide, but the drivers are well-informed locals who are unlikely to refuse to answer questions.
There are several shuttles and it is therefore possible to use them for short trips (a couple of hours there and back) as well as very long ones (13 hours there and back). The shuttles are not to be underestimated, even if you arrive with your own car, because the road that crosses the park is certainly not a highway and relying on experienced drivers is a wise choice. In addition, as we will see later, private cars are not allowed to go all the way into the park.
The best choice, if you are fit and have time available, is to go on a long trek of a few hours or even a few days in a row. At the visitor center, you will find all the information you need to undertake a route independently or to join specific courses and seminars of 3 or 5 days, which will allow you to enter into the world of wolves and glaciers, with expert guides to explore inaccessible places in complete safety.
By car in the park
Only one road enters the wilderness area, the Park Road. At 92 miles long, it connects the Parks Highway with Kantishna, the innermost point accessible by car. Not all of the road, however, is passable by car: only the first 15 miles are accessible to all, after which only shuttles can continue. If you want to go all the way, you might as well leave your car at the visitor center and take advantage of the shuttle from the beginning, but for a shorter tour, it may be worth driving. Even in the outermost area, it’s easy to spot wildlife and there’s never a shortage of views of snow-capped peaks, so the first 15 miles are not to be underestimated.
As the road climbs, the subarctic forest thins out and the views of the mountain range improve. Already at the 8.6 mile mark, Mount McKinley (66 miles from here), looms over the other peaks. Hares reign in this area, and are constantly seen, sometimes chased by ravenous lynxes. The border between the outer and inner territory (where you can’t drive) is marked by the Savage River.
Driving along these first miles has two advantages: first of all, if you sight an animal, you can stop and observe and photograph it from the car in complete comfort; moreover, if you are equipped to walk, you can choose to leave the car at any time and walk along one of the paths that branch off the road.
Visit the park by shuttle
There are free shuttles and paid shuttles, which offer different services, but they all travel only in the summer. There are 3 free shuttles and on this page, you can download the timetables.
- Savage River Shuttle: it is the perfect shuttle for those who have very little time and want a taste of the park without spending money in addition to the entrance fee. The ride takes 2 hours on a round trip, but by getting off at the Savage River you can take walks or picnics. You can also take hiking trails from here. This shuttle is also the most convenient way to access the Savage River Campground.
- Riley Creek Shuttle: This is a very frequent shuttle (departures every 30 minutes) that connects major visitor services near the park entrance. It also provides access to Riley Creek Campground, as well as Horseshoe lake.
- Sled dog demonstration Shuttle: from the visitor center leads to the kennel where sled dog demonstrations take place. Unless you want to walk (1.5 miles), this shuttle is the only way to get to the kennel, as there is no parking.
To explore the park in more depth, there are also paid shuttles (cheaper than guided tours because they don’t have a guide on board). There are four options and on this page, you can find the updated schedules of the different buses. These shuttles are free for children under 15.
- Toklat River: about 53 miles from the park entrance, this is one of the most popular destinations, being relatively short but still allowing for a good overview of the park. The round trip takes 6.5 hrs and the cost is $33.5. Book here.
- Eielson Visitor Center: It takes 8 hours for a round trip between the visitor center and the Eielson Visitor Center, located near mile marker 66. The reason to take this shuttle is that the Eielson Visitor Center is located in one of the most scenic spots in the entire Denali National Park. In addition, the route, which is longer than the previous one, allows you to see an even more inner part of the park and increases your chances of spotting wildlife along the way. The cost is $42.75. Book here.
- Wonder Lake: Recommended on bright sunny days, the ride on this shuttle takes 11 hours round trip and leads to Wonder Lake Campground (85 miles from the entrance). Among the natural wonders offered by this route, the most photographed is undoubtedly the Reflection Pond, which, as its name suggests, mirrors the mountains in front of it. The cost is $58.75. Book here.
- Kantishna: This shuttle runs the entire length of Park Road to its terminus, the old mining town of Kantishna. Where gold was once mined, there are now picturesque trails that lead into the innermost part of the park. The duration of the trip is 12 hours round trip and the cost is $64. Book here.
Hiking and trekking for everyone
Do you already have experience trekking? Have you learned the ABC of how to behave in front of a bear? Well, you’re ready to venture out on foot into the foothills of McKinley. Nearly all of the trails start at the visitor center, making them accessible no matter how you get to the park. You can walk for days in the park without ever taking the same trail, but if you’re a passing tourist and want to put on your hiking shoes for a few hours, there are also options suitable for everyone.
The most popular route is the Horseshoe Lake Trail: a short trail of just over 0.6 miles (1.2 miles round trip), which in addition to the lake from which it takes its name also crosses a river and a stream. It is ideal for those who cannot walk far and allows you to see many aquatic animals such as beavers and muskrats, but it is not uncommon to also run into some moose.
The McKinley Station Trail is also simple and interesting: an evocative path in the coniferous forest that in just 1.5 miles connects the visitor center with Riley Creek. Of similar length to the previous one is the Taiga Trail: it is one of the most agile and is the starting point for many other trails which experienced hikers can enjoy. The Rock Creek Trail, 2.3 miles long, branches off from the park kennel; the slight ascent is not so challenging, but provides a truly magnificent view.
Also short, but far from the visitor center, are the Savage River Loop Trail and the Savage Alpine Trail, which start at miles 14 and 15 of Park Road, respectively. The first is a circular trail of about 1.8 miles, accessible for a quarter of the way even in a wheelchair, which crosses over the rushing Savage River by bridge. The second, twice as long as the previous one, allows you to climb a ridge from where you can enjoy a breathtaking view.
An interesting alternative is a bicycle. Not all trails are bikeable, but there is a good network of bike paths that start at the visitor center.
How to deal with wildlife?
Knowing how to deal with large mammals is not to be underestimated: while wolves avoid humans and herbivores are unlikely to be dangerous, bears and moose can make even the most experienced rangers quake in their boots.
Park rangers recommend keeping a distance of at least 985 feet from bears and teach the main rules to follow if, unintentionally, you should find yourself too close to these animals.
Moose are unpredictable and their strength and agility are impressive. Normally 60-90 feet are recommended as a safe distance, but it is good to double that if you see a female with cubs. Do not underestimate eagles and other birds of prey: going closer than 330 feet from an eagle’s nest can be really dangerous.
Where to stay in Denali National Park
Spending one or more nights inside Alaska’s premier wilderness park is advice I would give to anyone visiting this state. Falling asleep hearing the howling of wolves and waking up in the morning seeing an eagle soaring through the clear sky in search of prey are just a few reasons why sleeping in the wilderness here is a unique experience.
The most experienced hikers, but also normal tourists who do not disdain adventure, can opt for camping. Don’t just think of a tent pitched in the woods where a grizzly bear can surprise you in your sleep: to avoid risks, there are many equipped campsites along Park Road. The cheapest (around $25 per night) are Sanctuary River Campground, Igloo Creek Campground, and Wonder Lake Campground (the latter costs $16 per night, to which you need to add a one-time booking fee of $8).
The latter is considered the best of the entire park from the point of view of its location. Slightly more expensive (around $25-30 per night) are Riley Creek Campground, Savage River Campground, and Teklanika River Campground. Through mid-May and after mid-September, almost all campgrounds are closed.
During the cold months, between september and may, only Riley Creek Campground remains open, which is free during these weeks. If you want to find lodging within the park, you can opt for these two lodges. Both are located in the Kantishna area towards the end of Park Road. The prices are not cheap, but you will have the opportunity to spend a night literally surrounded by nature.
- Denali Backcountry Lodge: the rooms are not overly spacious, but they are well cared for and the wooden structure interiors make it all the more welcoming and pleasant. The same attention to detail has been given to the communal areas both inside and outside, allowing you to relax and enjoy the beautiful views.
- Kantishna Roadhouse: this is a slightly more spartan solution than the previous one that offers separate cabins, all built in wood. The hotel also offers many activities inside the park which can be a good idea for those who do not want to visit it independently.
The valid alternative, in this case, is to sleep outside the park area, looking for hotels in the nearby villages, especially in the areas of Cantwell or Healy.
