There are few places in the world where you can closely observe so many bears while fishing for salmon in their natural habitat. One such place is Katmai National Park and Preserve, located on a volcanic peninsula in Alaska with fascinating landscapes.
Visiting this national park is not easy, and while it may not be for everyone, those enthusiasts who dare to go will have an unforgettable experience.
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An Introduction to Katmai National Park
Katmai National Park and Preserve is an Alaskan park famous for its large number of brown bears (there are about 2,000 of them) and volcanoes, the main one being the Katmai stratovolcano, which is also the one that gave the park its name. There are 18 volcanoes, 7 of which are active and have erupted in the last one hundred years.
Initially, it was the volcanoes that attracted people’s interest and they were the reason for creating the protected area, but in the 1950s the abundance of salmon, and consequently of bears, started drawing more attention and tourism grew. Today, Katmai is home to the largest protected population of brown bears in the world.
These majestic creatures are what visitors come to see, but at the same time it is also the reason why it is dangerous to venture on by yourself in the areas beyond Brooks Camp and the official routes. In addition to bears, it is possible to spot other wildlife such as moose, wolves, beavers, otters and so on.
While today Katmai National Park is the realm of the bears, humans once lived in the area as well, as evidenced by archaeological findings. In fact, some artifacts from 6,000 years ago have surfaced and at Amalik Bay there are even artifacts from 7,000 years ago, while the archaeological site that can be visited at Brooks Camp is from 4,500 years ago.
The first Europeans to arrive here were the Russians, who traded furs with Native Americans and lived for a long time in the village called Katmai. The Russians also founded other villages both along the coast and inland. The Russians were later replaced by the Americans of the Alaska Commercial Company, who abandoned the area in the early 1900s, when otters were starting to become scarce, and the fur trade was no longer profitable.
Location and Directions
Katmai National Park is located in southwest Alaska, on the Alaska Peninsula. Most of the park can only be reached by taking small airplanes or seaplanes, while some areas can also be reached by water with water-taxis. But first, you must take a plane from Anchorage to King Salmon.
Once you arrive in King Salmon, you can reach both Brooks Camp and all other destinations in the park by water-taxi. This page of the official website lists the main water-taxi operators. You can also take a water-taxi from King Salmon to Brooks Camp.
Prices of water-taxis are comparable to those of airplanes, but there are two advantages. You do not need to be as concerned about the weight of luggage (which can affect small aircraft) and most importantly, it is rare for them to skip rides, while flights can be canceled due to fog or bad weather.
Tickets and Hours
Admission to the park is completely free, but keep in mind that transportation to get there and lodging inside is quite expensive. However, if you have the “America the Beautiful” Parks Pass, you can take advantage of the 50 percent discount on campsites and other services.
Likewise, although the park is open year-round 24 hours a day, both visitor centers and transportation operate only at certain times.
- King Salmon Visitor Center: Open from early March to early September, daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
- Brooks Camp Visitor Center: Open from early June to late September, daily from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.
- Robert F. Griggs Visitor Center: Open from early June to mid-September, daily from noon to 3 p.m.
Things to Do at Katmai National Park
The main reason visitors travel to Katmai National Park is to see the bears, and Brooks Camp is the perfect place to do so. Here you can stay overnight in the Brooks Lodge or in the campground. There is an electric fence that prevents bears from entering the camp area in order to protect visitors.
While staying here, it is essential to follow the instructions provided by the rangers, both for your own safety and that of other visitors and so as not to affect the ecosystem of the park. Indeed, humans are guests in the bears’ territory.
Katmai Bear Viewing at Brooks Falls
A hike just over half a mile long takes you to Brooks Falls, the low waterfalls on the Brooks River where bears catch salmon making their way up the river. To reach the falls from Brooks Camp, one must cross the river by taking Lake Brooks Road and then take the trail that leads to the falls in less than half a mile. It’s about a 30-minute walk from the campground to get there. Near the falls is the Brooks Falls Bear Viewing Platform, an elevated platform from which to safely observe and photograph the bears.
Just before arriving, you can detour to also reach the Riffles Platform, a second platform located a little further downstream. Actually, there is also a third platform, the Lower River Platform, which is located near Brooks Camp, where there is a footbridge and the river flows into the lake. Bears can also be seen from here, although they mostly congregate at the falls to catch salmon.
Hikes from Brooks Camp
Brooks Camp is the only area where there are marked hiking trails. The most popular trail is undoubtedly the one leading to Brooks Falls that I just mentioned, but it is not the only one. Here are other hikes you can do:
- Oxbow Overlook Trail. This short trail is also known as the Cultural Site Trail. It is less than half a mile long and starts near the Brooks Camp Visitor Center. The trail provides access to an archaeological area where an ancient Native American dwelling is preserved.
- Lake Brooks Road. This is the route to take to get to Lake Brooks. It is about 2.5 miles round trip.
- Dumpling Mountain Trail. Most people looking for a day hike choose this trail that goes from Brooks Camp to Dumpling Mountain. Although it is little more than a hill (2,440 ft), at the top you have a beautiful view of Naknek Lake, Lake Brooks and the Brooks River that connects them.
Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes
Katmai National Park is not only famous for bears. The second major attraction of this area is the volcanoes. In fact, there is considerable volcanic activity here, and there is an area where the snow-capped peaks are actually a series of volcanoes. This area is also the least accessible. However, there is one quite scenic part of the park that you can reach called the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes.
Why is this wide valley called the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes? Back in 1912, the largest eruption of the 20th century occurred here, giving rise to the Novarupta volcano. Four years later, Robert F. Griggs, a scholar and the leader of a National Geographic expedition, found an endless expanse of fumaroles spewing ash and steam. From that moment it earned the name it still bears today.
When you arrive, you will see a valley that stretches over 39 mi2 completely covered by a layer of ash more than 650 ft thick. The Lethe River flows through this desolate valley, carving its own bed, and in some places forms a very deep canyon.
But how do you get to the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes? From early June to mid-September, there is a ranger-led tour that leaves daily at 9 a.m. from Brooks Camp. The tour takes about 7 hours. You will travel the first part by bus, and then you will hike 3.3 miles (with 1,000 ft of elevation gain).
Katmai National Park Tours
Because a multi-day visit to Katmai can be challenging, you may opt for taking a day trip. Tours usually leave from Homer and include a flight, a day at Brooks Camp with a hike to Brooks Falls and bear watching, and a return trip to Homer. Here are the main tours to choose from:
Virtual Tour of Katmai National Park
There are many factors such as cost and logistics that can make visiting Katmai National Park difficult. However, there is a way to enjoy its beauty even from the comfort of your couch at home: a virtual visit.
On this page of the official website, you can watch webcams placed at strategic points to capture the bears. Also, here are some links to YouTube channels that post informational videos that help you to delve deeper into this wonderful Alaskan park.
Places to Stay in Katmai National Park
As I explained above, the only place to find lodging within the park is Brooks Camp, but you will likely have to stay at least one night in King Salmon. I recommend the Alaska King Salmon Lodge, which has different rooms for one, two or three people.Almost everyone who comes this way makes a stop in Anchorage. It’s Alaska’s only major city and it offers several options, so it is not difficult to find accommodations in Anchorage. If, on the other hand, you plan to visit the park on a day trip, you will need to stay overnight in Homer: there is a good selection of hotels here as well.
