New Mexico is not only a state that makes natural wonders its strong point, but also offers a real window into the past of the United States. I’m not only talking about the well-known Pueblo of Native Americans, who continue to live and fascinate tourists, but also the legends of the Far West.
In particular, I refer to the mythical deeds of one of the most famous American outlaws, Billy the Kid, and the trouble he caused in this area before being executed by his nemesis, Pat Garrett. In this article, I will describe an itinerary in the heart of New Mexico that, in addition to history, will allow you to discover beautiful views and routes that are not often frequented by tourists.
Contents
The Story of Billy the Kid and Pat Garrett
When telling the story of Billy the Kid, it’s always hard to separate the fact from fiction, since he’s an outlaw who has become legendary. This is also thanks to the many successful films including Pat Garrett and Billy the Kid from 1973. Bob Dylan composed the soundtrack and portrayed one of the characters in the movie.
Childhood in Silver City
As the story goes, around 1873, Henry McCarty, who still did not have the pseudonym Billy the Kid, moved with his mother to Silver City, where the future outlaw spent much of his childhood. Some say he committed his first robbery there. Unfortunately, today the town has no museum/attraction dedicated to Billy the Kid, except for a small wooden hut, donated by director Ron Howard after he finished filming his film The Missing, located in the place where Henry McCarty is believed to have actually lived with his family.
The Lincoln County War
The fame of Billy the Kid is mainly linked to the episode known as the Lincoln County War. It all began when an Englishman named John Tunstall decided to settle in Lincoln County, New Mexico, to engage in the cattle trade, but at the time it was strictly controlled, even with unorthodox methods, by Lawrence Murphy and James Dolan. The two ran the only store in the entire county and, over the years, had formed what we can call a cartel in modern terms. The tension grew to the point where Tunstall was killed, which set off the Lincoln County War. Tunstall’s employees, including Billy the Kid, joined a group called the “Regulators“, whose name made obvious their intention to avenge Tunstall’s death in any way.
Rides and shootings raged through the county for many months (U.S. President Rutherford B. Hayes called Lincoln’s Main Street “the most dangerous street in America“, which gives you an idea of how bad the situation was) and culminated in the Battle of Lincoln when for four consecutive days Lt. Col. Nathan Dudley faced off Regulators, who were barricaded inside a house. The episode is known to have been one of the most violent and bloody events in the history of the Wild West. Despite the defeat of his side, Billy the Kid still managed to make a lucky escape.
The fight with Pat Garrett and the death of Billy the Kid
Once he escaped death in the Battle of Lincoln, Billy the Kid remained on the run for a time and he continued his raids in the area. It would be another iconic character of the period to put an end to his trail of blood and violence. The man in question was Sheriff Pat Garrett, whose turbulent and unclear past almost as nebulous as that of our protagonist. After months of searching, Garrett put an end to Billy the Kid’s life on a ranch near Fort Sumner.
Billy the Kid Trail Scenic Byway
In New Mexico, there is a scenic byway named after the legendary outlaw that crosses Lincoln (which, as we have seen, is where the most significant events in Billy the Kid’s life took place), interesting natural landscapes such as the Lincoln National Forest, the Ruidoso River, the Sierra Blancas, and many other places that recall the history of the Far West. Let’s take a look at the main ones.
Things to Do in Lincoln, New Mexico
You can almost still hear the sound of the shooting that took place in this town as you walk along the streets of Lincoln, which could almost be considered a ghost town. Despite having few inhabitants, the area has managed to retain the charm of an original outpost of the Far West and offers its visitors a look back in time to that turbulent period in the history of the United States.
Admission to all the historical sites in the town costs $5. The complex is open from Thursday to Monday, with operating hours from 10 am to 4 pm. It is closed on January 1st, Easter, Christmas, and Thanksgiving. To find out if there are any changes in the schedule or if there are any special events, please check the official website.
Among the things absolutely worth seeing are the following:
- The Lincoln County Courthouse: it stands on what used to be Lawrence Murphy’s shop and it was used as a prison for Billy the Kid while he awaited his death sentence by hanging, from which he escaped. You can relive the events of that daring escape by visiting the rooms and looking at the bullet holes fired by Billy the Kid himself.
- The Turnall Store: setting foot in the store that sparked the Lincoln County War is like taking a trip in a time machine. Everything from the kinds of food to knick-knacks to equipment is original and reminiscent of the Far West. Once inside, you have the sense that you will see Billy the Kid showing up any minute.
- The San Juan Mission Church is the town’s church and it is still active today.
- The Torreon: a real, albeit rudimentary, circular fortification to protect the city. It’s also one of the oldest buildings in Lincoln. It was built by the Spanish to defend themselves against Native American raiders.
- The Anderson-Freeman Visitors Center: this was built recently in order to offer visitors a general history of the area and to host a permanent exhibit that reconstructs all the bloody events that took place in this region.
Fort Stanton
This area was formerly the site of a U.S. fort and today is frequented by many nature lovers who want to visit the Snowy River Cave National Conservation Area under the auspices of the Bureau of Land Management. In fact, there are numerous opportunities for hiking and camping.
It is where you can access Fort Stanton Cave, the second-largest cave in all of New Mexico, which was first explored by the soldiers stationed in the fort. In fact, you can still see the signs of their engravings. The Snowy River Cave, which gives its name to the area, is particularly impressive due to the white color of the calcite floor that appears to be a real river of snow. At the moment only Fort Stanton Cave is open to the public and, in case you want to visit it, you will have to apply for a permit at the BLM Roswell Field Office.
It is much easier to visit the actual fort that today houses the Fort Stanton Museum and Fort Stanton Live, an event that is held every year that locals like to attend. You can find all the necessary information by visiting the official website.
Ruidoso
In Ruidoso, you will find the Hubbard Museum of the American West, which recalls the achievements of the Far West era. It is very well maintained and displays artifacts dating back to the era of the American frontier. The permanent exhibit focuses on the history and development of firearms of that time period, while temporary exhibits take place throughout the year.
Attention: the museum is temporarily closed.
Other Places with a Connection to Billy the Kid
We now take a detour from the Billy the Kid Trail and visit two other locations in New Mexico that are closely linked to the life of the American outlaw.
Mesilla
Mesilla is one of the oldest settlements in New Mexico. The role that this small town plays in the story of Billy the Kid is that once captured by Pat Garrett, he was tried and convicted here for the crimes committed during the Lincoln War. The Old Courthouse and Jail building still retains its original appearance. Instead of a museum, there is a gift shop inside entirely dedicated to Billy the Kid.
Billy the Kid Grave in Fort Sumner
You can find some references to the tempestuous history of Billy the Kid especially at the Old Fort Sumner Museum, renowned for being the place where the famous American bandit is buried. It was in this area that he was captured and killed by Pat Garrett. Billy the Kid grave is placed next to that of two of his fellow outlaws, which has the inscription Pals on it. You will notice that they are protected by a steel grate since there have been multiple instances of theft and vandalism over the years.
Another attraction of the city entirely dedicated to the bandit is the Billy the Kid Museum managed since 1945 by a nice elderly couple who, despite its spartan character, offers visitors the possibility to browse a large collection of memorabilia and original objects that belonged to the outlaw. Admission costs $5 and the hours of operation vary depending on the time of year, so we invite you to check the official website (also a nice leap into the past!).
Events
Below I will mention the main events in this area that honor the history of the Far West.
Old Lincoln Days
An annual event that takes place in the city of Lincoln where masked actors evoke events in the area, including Billy the Kid’s famous escape from the prison where he was awaiting his death sentence. In addition to the shows, you will find various food stands and live music. It usually takes place at the beginning of August. You can check what time it will take place this year by visiting the event’s website.
Lincoln County Cowboy Symposium
Pack your hat and boots and immerse yourself in cowboy culture and traditions at Ruidoso Downs. Storytelling, rodeos, live country music, cowboy clothing displays, and food stands will take you on a journey through time to discover this culture.
Fort Stanton Live
Speaking about the attractions in the Fort Stanton area, we have made a brief mention of this event that takes place every year. You can see live re-enactments of the battles of the American Civil War and Indian Wars era, as well as watch the works and experiences of historians, artisans, artists, and photographers who specialize in this particular and fascinating period of U.S. history. To learn more about the program of the event and other relevant information, check out the event website.
