Far from mass tourism, the delightful and elegant Port Townsend is located on the northeastern tip of the Olympic Peninsula in Washington State. The beautiful town is situated where the Strait of Juan de Fuca and the Puget Sound inlet converge.
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How to Get There
Port Townsend can be easily reached from Seattle to the east or from Port Angeles to the west via US-101, which, after tracing the Pacific coastline for miles, also runs along the perimeter of Olympic National Park before merging onto Highway 5 and concluding its route in Washington state’s most populous urban area. To reduce driving time, you can choose the efficient ferry network that connects key locations along the Puget Sound.
Just 1.86 miles from the city center, Fort Worden, a now decommissioned military outpost, was constructed in the late 19th century to safeguard this area, which has been deemed of strategic importance since the time of Native Americans.
Cinema enthusiasts will undoubtedly recognize the former military base, now preserved within a magnificent State Park, as the main setting for the legendary film “An Officer and a Gentleman” (1982).
Things to Do in Port Townsend
Port Townsend exudes considerable charm with its abundance of late Victorian buildings, historic inns, well-maintained restaurants, and refined art galleries. The atmosphere is pervaded by a constant and subtle tranquility emanating from the silent forests of the surrounding mountains and the placid waters of the ocean, harmonizing with the gentle rhythm of the tides.
Historical downtown
Water Street, while skirting the entire bay, fully serves as the vibrant downtown area, declared a National Historic District many years ago. Here, multi-level brick buildings can be admired, many of which were transformed from warehouses into art galleries around the 1960s, thanks to the foresight of some citizens who revitalized the city’s development.
On the main street and its adjacent ones, a collection of charming cafes, elegant restaurants, and antique boutiques can be discovered. It’s worth stepping into the Rose Theatre, housed in a two-story building on Taylor Street, transformed into a cinema with a refined lounge on the second floor. The Monarch Hotel, formerly known as the Waterstreet Hotel and even earlier a famous and bustling bordello, is a picturesque inn where one can choose vintage rooms with an exclusive sea view.
A visit to the City Hall and the adjacent Jefferson County Historical Society Museum is intriguing, where the building boom that the town experienced around the late 1800s is recounted. During that time, many believed that the town could become the primary railway hub of the Pacific Northwest, potentially rivaling Seattle.
Uptown
A significant number of houses in the distinctive Victorian style dot the hill that rises behind Water Street. While many of these are private residences, it’s still worth taking a stroll through this neighborhood, easily accessible via the staircases of Taylor Street. Furthermore, every Saturday, the Farmers Market comes to life on the square adjacent to the Community Center on Taylor Street. Here, you can purchase and sample incredibly fresh food products brought directly by local county farmers.
Point Hudson Marina
Small and medium-sized boats are neatly anchored in the tranquil and romantic harbor of the city of Port Townsend. On the main pier, you can find refreshment in some establishments that directly overlook the sea. For lovers of extra-large animals, an excursion with Puget Sound Express is recommended.
The company’s boats, which have been providing this service for over forty years, depart regularly for San Juan Island in search of various species of whales and white-headed orcas. The ticket price exceeds one hundred dollars; however, the experience is truly unique, and the observation of the large mammals is guaranteed. The company offers a free voucher for a second trip in case of failure to spot the great marine cetaceans.
Near the harbor, heading north along the bay on foot, you’ll find Chetzemoka Park. In this city park, you can choose to have a simple meal on the grassy lawns surrounded by lush trees or on the wild beach right by the water’s edge.
Fort Worden Historical State Park
Fort Worden Historical State Park, after serving for years as a military defense outpost, is now a splendid protected state area where you can spend days in complete relaxation. Enjoy walks on the expansive sandy stretches, hillside hikes, visits to the historic military batteries, eagle and white-headed orca sightings. Even for a single day, the Washington State Discover Pass is required for vehicle access.
Conference Center
The Conference Center, located in the southern part of Fort Worden, can be considered the “downtown” of the state park, with its main artery being Eisenhower Avenue. After passing through the entrance of the reserve, you’ll encounter the original barracks after just a few hundred feet. These barracks have been renovated and now serve as conference rooms, convention centers, museums, schools, music pavilions, or theater spaces.
These scattered structures often host music festivals that attract a large number of enthusiasts, and as a whole, they represent a commendable example of natural and urban revitalization. Some smaller buildings can be rented by private individuals as vacation homes or group dormitories. The central location of these facilities allows you to be just a short walk away from the trailheads, historical sites, and the beach.
Point Wilson
The Point Wilson area covers the easternmost part of the park, including the east coast and a portion of North Beach. At the extreme northern tip of the promontory, you’ll find the Point Wilson Lighthouse.
The structure is still in operation, but unfortunately, it’s no longer open for visits. Behind it, there rises a low hill dominated by two historic cannon batteries, Battery Vicars and Battery Kinzie, situated not far from each other and reachable on foot from the lighthouse parking area. Nestled between Cape Wilson and the hill, extending along the northern stretch and facing the Juan de Fuca Strait, there’s a roughly one-mile stretch of beach teeming with flocks of seagulls.
Chinese Gardens & North Beach
This area, situated in the western part of the park, is less frequented and features expanses of meadows, bodies of water, and lush forests that are often visited by many fawns. Today, there’s no longer evidence of the orchards and gardens established by early Chinese immigrants, yet you can embark on an easy and picturesque loop trail of about 1.49 miles with an elevation gain of 95 feet.
The route, starting in the westernmost part of Eisenhower Avenue, combines the Peace Mile Trail, which cuts through lush forests, and the Chinese Garden Trail, which skirts a pleasant pond and unfolds across an unspoiled meadow. In the northernmost part of the trail, you can venture out to North Beach, a long sandy beach with a mystical and primitive atmosphere, caressed by tranquil blue waters.
Artillery Hill
Artillery Hill stands prominently in the northernmost part of the promontory, situated between the Chinese Gardens and Point Wilson, commanding the surrounding lands and safeguarding the Puget Sound. This hilly area is crisscrossed by numerous trails and dotted with well-developed concrete fortifications, all of which are freely visitable.
By following the complete loop trail that connects segments of individual trails, you can visit the major historical sites and enjoy incredible panoramic views of the Strait of San Juan de Fuca and Puget Sound. The trail, which conventionally begins between Eisenhower Avenue and Fort Worden Way, spans approximately 3 miles and has an elevation gain of 266 feet.
“An Officier and a Gentleman” Filming Locations
The main setting of the iconic 1982 film, starring Richard Gere, is Fort Worden. It is here that the naval cadets, aspiring officers, undergo their rigorous training under the guidance of the strict Drill Sergeant Foley, portrayed by Louis Gossett Jr. and winner of the Oscar for Best Supporting Actor for this role.
Walking among the white buildings of the Conference Center, strolling along the stretch of North Beach adjacent to the lighthouse, visiting Battery Kinzie at Point Wilson, or exploring the austere Battery Benson and Battery Ash on the heights of Artillery Hill, you can easily identify numerous locations that provided the backdrop for some now legendary scenes from the film.
Port Townsend was also used as a filming location: noteworthy is the Tides Inn and Suites, where the protagonist Zack Mayo (Richard Gere) and the beautiful Paula Pokrifki (Debra Winger) consummate their love. The inn has continued to operate and, even today, after various renovations and expansions, it can still be easily recognized.
Places to Eat in Port Townsend
In Port Townsend, you’ll have a wide range of options to choose from, including American restaurants, international cuisine, and more laid-back diners or cafes. Whether for lunch or dinner, the Silverwater Café (237 Taylor Street) is recommended. It’s an elegant restaurant with tasteful decor where you can sample both traditional dishes like fish and chips with a special lemon and dill batter, as well as local cuisine such as the original clam chowder.
For breakfast or brunch, the popular Point Hudson Café (130 Hudson Street) is definitely worth a visit. It offers a maritime atmosphere, romantic harbor views, and delicious seafood omelets.
Best Places to Stay in Port Townsend
At Fort Worden, you can choose to stay in converted barracks that now serve as hotels or vacation homes. There are accommodations of different levels and styles, which were previously used by admirals, colonels, generals, officers, or sergeants. Additionally, within the state park, there are various equipped campsites located in different areas. Registration for camping is done at Building 200 in the administrative office.
In Port Townsend, it’s recommended to stay at the aforementioned Tides Inn and Suites (1807 Water Street), where you can, with advanced booking, stay in the room used for the filming of “An Officer and a Gentleman.” The motel is truly magnificent: it’s situated in a prime location by the sea, and most of the well-furnished, clean, and well-maintained rooms offer direct views of the tranquil inlet. Watching the sun slowly set over the Puget Sound from your own terrace is indeed a privilege.
