San Diego is the oldest city in California, or rather, Old Town is. If we were to exclude the Native American villages, this would be the first settlement on the West Coast. Visiting it today may feel more like entering a theme park than a city’s old neighborhood. In fact, San Diego’s Old Town is a combination of the two.
Although the heart of the city is located in the Gaslamp Quarter, within the perimeter of the Old Town you can see the first houses built in California and discover the history of Old San Diego starting from the arrival of settlers and missionaries. Visiting Old Town, from the square of the old village to the emblematic hill of Presidio Park, is a pleasant immersion in one of the most interesting chapters of American history.
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How to Get to Old Town
Old Town is located in the northwest part of San Diego and is easily accessible by car and public transportation from all over the city. If you are driving to Old Town, use Juan Street as a reference point. On this street, there is a large parking lot and from there, you can easily walk to all the points of interest of Old Town.
If you plan to use San Diego’s public transportation, there are several ways to get to Old Town.
- Trolley. The green line of the city tram stops at the Old Town Transit Center, right in front of the entrance to Old Town. If you are coming from downtown San Diego, this is without a doubt the fastest and most direct way to get to Old Town.
- Bus. If the route of the green line of the trolley is not convenient for you, there is probably a bus you can take. In fact, many lines reach the Old Town from every area of the city. The following buses are the ones that go to Old Town: 8, 9, 28, 44, 83, 88, 105, and 150.
- Train. If you have a day ticket that includes all regional transportation, in addition to the trolley and buses, you can also take the Coaster or Pacific Surfliner train. These lines, on the route between San Diego and other cities in California to the north, stop at Old Town.
Operating Hours
Old Town Historic Park has no opening or closing time since it is a city district. However, the Visitor Center and all the museums follow fixed opening and closing times:
- May to September: 10:00 am-5:00 pm
- October to April:10:00 am-4:30 pm
If you want to find the most updated information about the operating hours of museums and the days they are closed, visit the official website.
A Brief History of the Old Town San Diego State Historic Park
The first conquerors landed on the North American Pacific Coast in the middle of the 16th century, as the Cabrillo National Monument in San Diego still testifies today. In 1769, Father Junípero Serra arrived with the aim of establishing here a series of missions (there is a total of 21 missions) that represent the stronghold of today’s California. Today there is a road that unites them all known as the El Camino Real.
The missionaries settled on the hill known today as the Presidio (from the military fort that flanked the mission) and a Hispanic community soon began to form at the foot of the hill, initially little more than a group of houses made of mud and straw. In 1835 the village was called El Pueblo de San Diego and gradually developed until the boom that the city experienced in the following century.
The history of San Diego is closely linked to that of California, and its early inhabitants experienced many political transitions. It is incredible to think that those who were born here in the early nineteenth century changed four nationalities in the course of their lives, without ever moving from their village. Although the inhabitants of San Diego were initially Spanish, in 1821 they became Mexican after Mexico declared independence from the Kingdom of Spain. After the American-Mexican War, in 1848, California ceased to be part of Mexico and officially entered the United States in 1850. During that two years period before becoming a state, there was political instability in California.
Things to Do in Old Town
The Old Town State Historic Park aims to preserve the rich historical heritage that characterized San Diego between 1821 and 1872. Around the central square, where the U.S. flag flies, there are still some of the original houses that have been renovated and converted into museums. All the other buildings have been reconstructed to show visitors the history of the historic part of San Diego, but they mix different historical periods and we pass from Spanish Colonial architecture to buildings from the time of the Gold Rush.
I suggest you start your visit at the Robinson Rose Visitor Center, where you will not only be able to acquire all the information you may need, but also find out when the tours take place. Often, in fact, especially on weekends, the staff of the Visitor Center offers free guided tours of Old Town, explaining its history and allowing you to enter the old buildings, now furnished with period furniture to recreate the original setting.
The museums of Old Town
The houses that are 250 years old are few and today they have been turned into museums. The area of the state park that preserves the Old Town today, however, is larger than the first very small settlement and also includes several museums. Below there is more information about these museums.
The historic houses
One of the main reasons to visit the Old Town is that you can see the very first houses that formed the settlement of San Diego. Most of the houses have been rebuilt, but are still just as interesting. Admission is free to all the houses.
- Casa de Estudillo. The main building overlooking the Old Town square was the home of the Spanish aristocrat Antonio de Estudillo. Built in 1825, it became a refuge for women and children during the American occupation in 1846. Although the building is the original house, in 1887 the caretaker who managed it sold all the tiles, doors, and windows, so part of what we see today is the result of renovations made in 1910 by architect Hazel W. Waterman with funds from the Spreckels family. The rooms are furnished with period furniture and objects and overlook the inner courtyard.
- Robinson Rose House. The Visitor Center itself is a house museum. It is located in one of the oldest buildings in the city. Built in 1853, this house functioned as a court, an operating room, a prison, a school, a newsroom, a shop, and a private home. James Robinson, who built the house, was a member of the first Masonic Lodge in San Diego, and the symbols and curiosities related to the Freemasons fill the house with intrigue.
- James McCoy House. Behind the Visitor Center, slightly isolated from the rest of the village, is one of the best-preserved house museums. The James McCoy House dates back to 1869 and is the home of California’s first sheriff. It is not actually the original building; in fact, it is just a reconstruction. However, everything has been reproduced in great detail and you’ll also find volunteers in period clothing to entertain you during your visit.
- Casa Machado Silvas and Casa Machado y Stewart. Two of the oldest houses in Old Town were owned by the Machado family. The roofs have been rebuilt, but the walls are the original ones. The two houses have early 19th century furniture and some replicas. The Machado y Stewart House dates back to 1836, while the Machado Silvas House was built a few years later for Jose Manuel Machado’s daughter.
- Cosmopolitan Hotel and Restaurant. The building that houses the Cosmopolitan Hotel dates back to 1827. This is the oldest hotel in San Diego. Over the years it has changed use several times, but has now returned to its original function. Although you may not be staying at this hotel, it is certainly one of the most interesting buildings to see outside.
- Wells Fargo Museum. The small but interesting museum revolves around an old stagecoach for transporting valuables and tells a piece of the history of the economic development in California during the 19th century.
- First San Diego Courthouse and Jail. The First San Diego Courthouse and Jail is a 1992 reconstruction of the original building.
- Whaley House. Apparently, this house is haunted. In fact, according to Travel Channel’s America’s Most Haunted, it’s the most haunted house in the United States. It was transformed into a museum in 1960, since then there have been many publications about paranormal phenomena within these walls.
- Casa de Wrightington. Built in 1840, this house that overlooks the square belonged to Thomas Wrightington and his wife, Juana. After his death in 1853, his widow lived in the house until 1890 and rented the house to Dr. George McKinstry Jr. for a long time. For thirty years, the doctor provided medical assistance to Native Americans with the help of Juana Wrightington, who spoke three languages and was able to interpret for him.
- Casa de San Diego. Dating back to 1830, it was originally a shop run by Richard Freeman and Allen Light, the first two African Americans to settle in Old Town. It is one of the houses that were reconstructed according to photos of the original one.
- Casa de Lopez. Juan Francisco Lopez, one of the first Spanish settlers in San Diego, built this house in 1835, then known as the Long House for its size. In 1846, it became the residence of Juan Matias Moreno, secretary to Pio Pico, the last Mexican governor of California. Since then it has been rebuilt and today it houses a restaurant.
- Mason Street School. Built in 1865, this was the first school in San Diego. It only has a single classroom and it is without doubt one of the most interesting buildings in Old Town.
Mormon Battalion Historic Site
This historic site commemorates the journey of the Mormon Battalion from Council Bluffs, Iowa to San Diego. The Mormon Battalion consisted of 500 men, who joined the US Army in 1846 during the Mexican-American War. Marching
In the museum, you can watch an interactive video and see historical artifacts and demonstrations that show you how bricks and gold objects are made. It is open in the winter (November-March) from Monday to Saturday 10:00 am to 8:00 pm and Sunday from 1:00 pm to 8:00 pm. Then in the summer (April-October), the museum is open from Monday to Saturday from 10:00 am to 11:00 pm and Sunday from 1:00 pm to 11:00 pm.
The Sheriff’s Museum
Along San Diego Avenue, on the edge of Old Town, there is a very interesting museum. The Sheriff’s Museum, easily recognizable because of the helicopter in the courtyard, tells the story of the San Diego County Sheriff’s Department since 1850. This is perfect for children, and it exhibits cars, motorcycles, jail cells, and various objects. Children can sit on motorcycles and in the sheriff’s car, make the siren sound, put on a bulletproof vest and play with handcuffs. If you visit this museum with your family, take a picture together behind bars.
The museum is open from Wednesday to Sunday from 11:00 am to 4:30 pm. Admission is free for children, while adults are required to make a donation.
More tourist attraction and historic sites in Old Town
Among the buildings in Old Town, there are some that are not used as museums, but are worth a visit. One example is the tobacconist Racine and Laramie Tobacconist. This is not just any tobacco store; it is the first cigar shop in San Diego, opened in 1869. It’s hard to believe you’ve seen such a vast amount and variety of cigars and pipes, as well as themed accessories like matches and cigar cutters. Clerks are dressed in late 19th century clothes and spend their days smoking while serving customers. Despite being a full-fledged shop, it can be called a sort of small tobacco museum.
The Church of the Immaculate Conception is the main religious building in the Old Town. When Father Junípero Serra planted a cross on Presidio Hill on July 16, 1769, making San Diego the first of all California missions, this area began to take on a strong religious character. In 1848, the old adobe church was rededicated to the Immaculate Conception. Twenty years later, the construction of a new church began. It was completed in 1917 and is still open for worship today. Since the church is in Old Town, a non-residential and purely touristic area, it is not the classic neighborhood parish. In fact, it is dedicated mainly to travelers passing through San Diego.
The Old Town Cemetery is another point of interest in Old Town. If you follow the signs to El Campo Santo, you will easily find the site of the old graves of the first village of San Diego. The cemetery is bordered by a fence and is located on San Diego Avenue.
In front of the cemetery, there is the Old Town Model Railroad Depot. It is a model railway that takes up two rooms, with the reconstruction of mountains, rivers, cities, and numerous trains on train tracks that cross bridges and go through tunnels. Admission is free, but there is a suggested donation.
Handicraft and restaurants
Old Town contains some areas dedicated to artisan products, especially Mexican, and restaurants. The central square overlooks the Fiesta de Reyes and behind it, there is the Bazaar del Mundo. In the Fiesta de Reyes, you will find 19 small shops of Mexican handicrafts, while in the Bazaar del Mundo, you will find international handicrafts and an art gallery.
Along San Diego Avenue there are a number of restaurants and bars, most of them Mexican. The bright colors make them interesting to see even if you don’t stop to eat. In particular, we recommend Cafe Coyote, Fred’s Mexican Cafe, Old Town Mexican Cafe, and Miguel’s Cocina.
If you’re looking for more recommendations on where to eat in Old Town, read also our article about restaurants in San Diego.
Presidio Park
Presidio Park is the place where the colonization of California began. Although this area was once inhabited by the Kumeyaay people, in 1769, the San Diego de Alcalà Mission was founded here, flanked by the military garrison that gives its name to the hill. Later, the mission was moved inland, while the military fort remained the reference point for the urban settlement at the foot of the hill.
In 1907, entrepreneur and philanthropist George Marston purchased the entire Presidio Hill in order to create a park that would preserve the historical value of the place. In 1928, he also built the Spanish Revival building that we see today on top of the hill and which houses the Junípero Serra Museum. It is not always accessible, since it is also rented for private events.
Besides the museum, there’s not much else to see on the hill, but walking through the grove all the way to the flag in the center is still pleasant. A few years ago, a Scout project brought eagles here. You will likely be able to spot them.
Where to Stay Overnight
If you love history, there’s no better place to find a hotel in San Diego than Old Town. The most distinctive hotel is the Cosmopolitan Hotel…This historic hotel was established in 1827. In this area, there is a very wide selection of accommodations and you can find more suggestions in our article about where to find a hotel in San Diego.
