In San Francisco, there is a well-kept secret, a place that, while only a short distance from the city, allows you to reconnect with nature. It is Lands End, a park located on the California coast, full of points of interest, historical relics, and scenic overlooks, including the Lands End Lookout, where the Lands End Trail starts. Keep reading to find out more about the park and one of the trails most beloved by locals.
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Lands End and Lands End Lookout: Where to Find Them
Lands End is a city park nestled between the Sutro Historic District and Lincoln Park that borders part of the Fort Miley Military Reservation, south of the Golden Gate Bridge. This park is cherished by the city’s residents, who come here to take walks, run or simply admire the views as far as the eye can see. The most convenient access point is the Lands End Lookout, which is easily reached either by public transportation or by car (which you can park nearby as we shall see).
The park is located within the Golden Gate National Recreation Area, which overlooks, at its most extreme point the Gulf of the Farallones, off San Francisco Bay. Please keep in mind that like much of the Golden Gate Recreation Area, the Lands End is often exposed to fairly strong winds in the winter. However, the winds are much mellower in the summer.
Lands End Trail
The trail, which is well-marked by signs, transports you into an oasis of cypresses, eucalyptus, and cliffs overlooking the ocean, and is a must if you visit San Francisco. The length of the main loop trail, the Lands End Trail, is 3.4 miles (round trip), with an elevation gain of 538 ft. On average, it takes 1 1/2 hours to complete. This trail starts and returns to the Lands End Lookout, where the Visitor Center and parking lot are located.
There are other trails in the park as well, such as those that go into the Sutro Historic District, and the Lands End Trail itself is part of a larger trail, the Coastal Trail, a 7-mile scenic trail that goes from Lands End to the Golden Gate Bridge. The trail winds through forests and cliffs; it is either paved or rocky in certain parts and features sections with steps downhill that are carved into the earth. Therefore, it is a good idea to have appropriate footwear. The trail reaches the tip of Eagles Point and then takes you back to the starting point.
If, after arriving at Eagles Point, you still feel like walking a little further for about 0.6 miles, you can also cross the Sea Cliff residential area and reach China Beach, which got its name because it once served as a camping area for San Francisco’s Chinese fishermen. From this point, you will enjoy another beautiful view of the Golden Gate Bridge. Here are some noteworthy viewpoints that you will encounter along the way, or get to by taking short detours:
- Sutro Baths
- Point Lobos
- Battery Lobos
- Eastern Coastal Trail Overlook
- Mile Rock Beach
- Lands End Point
- Deadman’s Point
- Eagles Point
Not all places of interest in Lands End can be reached via the trail, so if you want to make sure you don’t miss anything take a look at the “things to see” section below.
Directions
The park is open daily and I recommend that you hike the trails between 8:30 a.m. and 6:00 p.m. During this time frame, there are always people around, and you will avoid possible unpleasant encounters.
Public Transportation
The Lands End Lookout (here are the coordinates to enter on the GPS) can be conveniently reached by public transportation. Here I point out some possible solutions.
- To get to the southwest region of the park (by the Visitor Center, to be clear), one can take the 38R Geary bus that leaves from the SF Downtown Transit Center, passes along Market Street and Geary Boulevard until it reaches 48th and Point Lobos Avenue.
- Alternatively, you can also arrive close to the intersection of El Camino del Mar and Lincoln Park by taking the 1 California bus that departs from downtown and also stops at 32nd Avenue. From there you will then have to walk north along 32nd Avenue toward El Camino del Mar where you will see signs for the park and make a left.
- Finally, there is a third option. When you reach 32nd Avenue you can walk one block westward along California Street until you reach the end of the street that leads to the wonderful tiled steps of Lincoln Park. From there you follow the path leading toward the park.
Parking
Parking at Lands End is free. There are a few convenient places to park (but they fill up very quickly on weekends). One is at the Lands End Lookout Visitor Center, then a smaller one is located on Point Lobos Avenue immediately across from the Visitor Center, and there is another near Fort Miley on El Camino del Mar).
All three parking lots have a maximum parking limit of 4 hours, between 7:00 a.m. and 6:00 p.m. There is also parking on El Camino del Mar near 32nd Avenue directly on the street where there is no time limit. However, you can only take advantage of this last option early in the morning, because spaces are limited and fill up very quickly.
Things to Do in Lands End
Cliff House and Dark Room
One of the first points of interest to admire is undoubtedly Ocean Beach, located within the Golden Gate National Recreation Area on the west side of San Francisco Bay. It is pleasant in autumn (mid to late September), while in winter it is often subject to strong winds or cloaked in fog which the city is famous for.
Although beloved by surfers who ride the waves created by the wind and take advantage of the strong currents, it is absolutely forbidden to swim here. Ocean Beach is home to the Cliff House, a building constructed in the neoclassical style that stands on the northern promontory overlooking the beach. It is currently closed to the public but, in the past, it has been the site of restaurants, art exhibitions, the Musée Mécanique (now located at Fisherman’s Wharf), and, on the terrace, the historic Camera Obscura.
The Camera Obscura, listed in the Register of National Historic Places, projects an image above a horizontal support. The metal covering in the dome at the top of the building rotates slowly until it makes a complete turn (lasting about six minutes) that allows visitors to enjoy a 360-degree view of the panorama around the building. You must definitely visit the Camera Obscura, and maybe even watch the sunset!
Sutro Baths
Continuing northwest, the next stop is Sutro Heights Park, also found in the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. It was here that the Sutro Baths, a lavish and unique complex, once stood in the 19th century. Built in 1894, the baths were comprised of six seawater pools (and was, at the time, the largest indoor facility in the world) and one freshwater pool, a museum displaying stuffed animals, historical artifacts, works of art, an amphitheater for 2,700 people, club rooms for 1,100 occupants, 517 locker rooms, restaurants, and even an ice skating rink.
Today only ruins remain due to a devastating fire in 1966. Nonetheless, it is an extremely fascinating place and the views of the ocean and Cliff House are truly breathtaking. Take binoculars with you, especially if you go in the spring when you can spot aquatic mammals, otters, and various species of birds.
Point Lobos
Further along the pleasant walk on the ocean, one will arrive at Point Lobos (not to be confused with Point Lobos State Natural Reserve), the name given by the Spanish-born inhabitants of the westernmost promontory of the Lands End Lookout. Here you can catch a glimpse of sea lions basking in the sun on the rocks below, rushing waves crashing on the cliffs, and, on the left, admire the ruins of Sutro Baths from another angle.
Finally, if one is lucky (and patient), from Point Lobos one can also spot whales migrating (including gray whales), for example, humpback whales that move southward between October and December and swim northward in April and May.
USS San Francisco Memorial
This is a war memorial built in honor of 100 sailors and Marines who died during World War II aboard the USS San Francisco. The memorial is as simple as it is special. In fact, it has parts of the wreckage taken from the ship’s deck. The memorial is oriented toward Guadalcanal (the site of the bloody battle with ships of the Japanese fleet). It is easy to get to the memorial, which is located in the parking lot of El Camino del Mar.
Remains of Fort Miley (Battery Chester)
The Fort Miley Military Reservation is located in Point Lobos and was acquired by the U.S. Army in the late 1800s to defend the port of San Francisco. The fort was completed in 1899 and its structure, as seen only partially today, was finished in 1944. A military hospital for veterans was added to the complex, and later some of the buildings were demolished and rebuilt. All that is left today of the fort is a weapons storage building that has been placed under the protection of the National Park Service.
All around, however, the remains of several pre-World War I batteries can still be seen dotting the perimeter of the hospital. The old artillery emplacements (e.g., Battery Chester) overlook a pleasant view. Although the site may have its interest from a historical point of view, many structures, in addition to being targeted by graffiti artists, are now in a state of disrepair.
Lands End Shipwrecks
Keeping in mind the strong currents and dense fog I mentioned earlier, I would also point out that the seabed in front of the Lands End Lookout is surrounded by numerous shipwrecks that, over the decades, have had the misfortune to come across the rocky ledges peculiar to the coastline. To be more precise, I should point out that the events began as early as during the Gold Rush era and continued into the last century. San Francisco has always been a busy hub of international trade in goods, and the waters of the channel between the Lands End and the Marin Headlands have claimed, over the centuries, more than 300 ships.
Despite the impressive number of ships, only three sites are worth including in the visit, especially since they are clearly visible from land: the Ohioan, the Lyman Stewart, and the Frank Buck. The Ohioan, a freighter that was converted during World War II into a military vessel, ran aground at dawn on October 8, 1936, when it collided with rocks near Point Lobos because of the thick fog that made it virtually impossible to see what was around. As soon as it dissipated, the Coast Guard brought the nautical pilot (yes, not the captain) to safety, while the crew decided to remain on board hoping to free the vessel once the fog had cleared. Despite their attempts, however, the ship could not be released.
The Lyman Stewart and the Frank Buck, on the other hand, were oil tankers built in the same shipyard that sank, ironically, in the same channel. The former collided with a cargo ship in 1922, while the latter shared a similar fate in 1937, following a collision with a luxury cruise ship. Both wrecks were partially destroyed, thanks to dynamite, in 1938, but the engines and parts of the hull are still visible during low tide, for example, from Mile Rock Beach.
Mile Rock Beach
Small but striking, Mile Rock Beach is a rocky cove where there are incredible views of the Marin Headlands, the entrance to San Francisco Bay, and the Golden Gate Bridge. In the distance, you can also make out the Mile Rock Lighthouse, positioned on a rocky ledge off of the Lands End Lookout, that gives the bay its name. It can be accessed safely only at low tide, but it can also be seen from the labyrinth that sits just above, in a commanding position.
Lands End Point and Eduardo Aguilera’s labyrinth
One of the viewpoints worth visiting on the Lands End Trail is Lands End Point, which is accessed via a rather steep staircase that descends to the waters: from here the view of the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco Bay is remarkable. An integral part of Lands End Point is a labyrinth built with stones and pebbles by artist Eduardo Aguilera in 2004. Created to resemble the seven-circuit labyrinth at Chartres, the Lands End Point labyrinth has, over the years, been destroyed several times by vandals, but always rebuilt by the artist, often with the assistance of volunteers.
Legion of Honor Museum
What makes the Legion of Honor Museum outstanding and priceless are the collections of figurative art it houses (European paintings, decorative arts, sculpture-including some by Rodin), exhibits of finds related to the Gold Rush era, artifacts and objects of value found within the cemetery, and objects honoring California soldiers who died during World War I. The museum is influenced by the Palais de la Légion d’Honneur in Paris. For more information on how to visit this museum and its collections, check out our upcoming article on the Legion of Honor Museum.
Lincoln Park
Lincoln Park has both great historical value and natural beauty. Dedicated to President Abraham Lincoln, this park is the furthest (and final) point of the highway of the same name (Lincoln Highway, the first one built in America – in 1913 – to cross 14 states). Originally, this area was a cemetery (19th century) and, in 1902, was converted into a 3-hole golf course. Later, under the auspices of the Parks Commission, the golf course was extended.
The cemetery, in which Chinese, Italians, French, and Japanese were buried, as well as unnamed citizens with no means to pay for a burial, was relocated, and then the Legion of Honor Museum was built near it. The view from Lincoln Park sweeps over downtown, the Golden Gate Bridge, and Marin Headlands (where Point Bonita is located). One of the park’s most recognizable landmarks is the tiled staircase, known as the Lincoln Park Steps, but as you walk around you will also notice a number of interesting monuments and memorials, for example:
- Lincoln Highway Western Terminus: The place that marks the end of the Lincoln Highway
- The Holocaust Memorial: A memorial dedicated to the holocaust
- Kong Chow Sojourner Tombs: One of the graves remaining from the historic cemetery
- Memorial of Peace and Great Nature: A homage to peace and the beauty of nature made by a Japanese artist
Where to Stay
Attractions near Lands End
Here are a few more nearby recommendations for both those who drive and walk
Accessible by car
Golden Gate Park
Although it may seem impossible, San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park is larger than New York’s Central Park. The main thing distinguishing the two is that one is more famous than the other, especially outside the United States. For Americans, however, and all the more so for Frisco residents, Golden Gate Park is a must-see.
Opened in about 1870, the city park soon became a destination both for the cultural attractions it offers (in fact, the De Young Memorial Museum, the Japanese Tea Garden, and the California Academy of Sciences, to name a few, are found here) and for the trails suitable for walking or biking.
Other highlights include the Conservatory of Flowers (built in the late 1800s, this greenhouse is one of the largest in the world), the San Francisco Botanical Garden (with 9,000 different species of plants from around the world), Hamon Observation Tower (360* viewing platform), the reservoirs and the bison enclosure which, today, are under the protection of the San Francisco Zoo. To learn more you can read our guide to Golden Gate Park.
Hidden Garden Steps
About an 11-minute drive away, located in the Inner Sunset District, you will find the Hidden Garden Steps, a staircase composed entirely of mosaics depicting flowers, plants, and even native insects. The staircase, located at 16th Avenue between Kirkham and Lawton, has nine different sections, totaling 148 steps. The Hidden Garden Steps is a community project supported by a fundraising effort that began in 2010. All of its designers have made unique and special contributions, making it one of San Francisco’s top attractions.
Finally, to the right and left of the staircase, there are manicured gardens that embellish the steps. To fully appreciate the Hidden Garden Steps, I strongly recommend that you start at the base and climb slowly upward-you will find that you will only be able to see the first half of the staircase. In fact, to admire it in its entirety, it is necessary to look at it from a distance.
Presidio
The former military fort constructed early in the city’s history became a national park in 1994 for all intents and purposes. Here you will find interesting historical relics, viewpoints, beaches, memorials, and natural beauty. Even the Golden Gate, San Francisco’s famous bridge, is located here. For a full list of the park’s attractions and tips to plan your visit here is our guide to the Presidio of San Francisco.
Accessible on foot
Dutch Windmill
About a 20-minute walk away from Land End, the Dutch Windmill, is located near the Beach Chalet, a colonial-style restaurant west of Golden Gate Park. Just over 72 feet tall, the mill initially served to pump water and irrigate the surrounding land. Over the years, there have been numerous renovations. Although the blades still served their original function, the mill was no longer used for that purpose. The windmill is beautified by the many tulips that dot the front garden and the area around the mill although, due to erosion and weathering, walking around it has become quite an undertaking.
