things to do in North Beach San Francisco

Visit North Beach: Home of Little Italy, the Beat Generation and Barbary Coast

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In my opinion, one of the best ways to get to know the city of San Francisco is to walk through its most significant neighborhoods in search of history, and North Beach has many stories to tell due to its Italian origins (it is considered the Little Italy of the city), and also from the era of the Beat movement, and even from the time when Barbary Coast existed.

So let’s learn more about this area and understand how to organize a visit to appreciate what this neighborhood has to offer.

Where is North Beach? Location and Directions

where is north beach
Green Street

North Beach is located in the northeastern part of San Francisco and is bordered by Fisherman’s Wharf to the north, Embarcadero to the east, Financial District to the south, Chinatown to the southwest, and Russian Hill (where Lombard Street is located) to the west.

However, delineating the perimeter of this neighborhood in a precise way is not an easy thing, and the locals themselves could answer the question “what are the boundaries of North Beach?” differently. Many will probably identify Columbus Avenue as its western border, but others will also tell you that the bars and restaurants just a few blocks over the border are part of the neighborhood anyway.

A further complication comes from the fact that, at least in part, Telegraph Hill and North Beach overlap, generating further confusion for those trying to rationally distinguish the neighborhoods of San Francisco.

One thing is certain, Columbus Avenue and its immediate surroundings are at the heart of the neighborhood, and as we will see, it is in this area that many attractions are concentrated, but there are also other areas of interest. Before going deeper, I invite you to read a little bit about North Beach’s history to help improve your experience.

A Brief History of North Beach

north beach san francisco historyIt may seem strange that a neighborhood called North Beach is not actually on the water, but there is an explanation. In the 19th century, in fact, this area was actually on the bay, but over the years the coastline has been artificially expanded with the addition of new land.

During the second half of the nineteenth century, a portion of today’s North Beach was part of the famous red-light district known as Barbary Coast, an area with dance halls, bars, clubs, and brothels, which was created as a result of the Gold Rush and the subsequent population growth.

little italy san francisco

The neighborhood has Italian roots, as you can see today by the great number of Italian restaurants, and the reason for this is that due to the reconstruction after the earthquake of 1906, many Italian immigrants moved to this area, including the family of Joe DiMaggio who, in addition to being raised in these streets, lived here for some years with Marilyn Monroe.

Another important period for North Beach was between the 1950s and 1960s, when the neighborhood became the meeting place of the Beat Generation, with the likes of Jack Kerouac, Lawrence Ferlinghetti, Allen Ginsberg and Neal Cassady.

North Beach still bears evidence of its past. Let’s take a closer look…

Things to Do in North Beach: Attractions and Places to Visit

In the following description, the places of interest are divided by theme. Please refer to the interactive map below.

Places related to the Beat Generation

beath generation san francisco
Jack Kerouac Alley

As is well known, North Beach has been the cradle of alternative culture for years, peaking during the Beat movement. The traces left here by Kerouac, Ginsberg, and their companions are long-lasting and still present on the streets of the neighborhood. The City Lights Bookstore became the headquarters of the Beat Generation, where some of the most important and controversial works of the period were published (Ginsberg’s Howl & Other Poems caused the publisher Lawrence Ferlinghetti to get arrested).

Right on the corner between the bookstore and Vesuvio Cafe, there is Jack Kerouac Alley, an alleyway entirely covered with murals dedicated to the great writer.

As you continue on Broadway, you will find The Beat Museum, a small museum with records, books, posters, photographs, and magazines dating back to the Beat movement. There are also other places that acted as important meeting points for Beat authors. I’ll talk about them in greater detail in the paragraph below.

Little Italy: Best Restaurants in North Beach

Best Restaurants in North BeachWhile visiting North Beach, you can’t help but notice that the neighborhood is dotted with Italian restaurants and cafes. Well, some of them have historical importance and have preserved a historic atmosphere. For example, the Vesuvio Café opened in 1948 right next to the City Lights Bookstore and was a frequent meeting point not only for the Beat Generation but also for artists such as Bob Dylan, Paul Kantner (Jefferson Airplane), and Francis Ford Coppola.

Another important establishment is Caffe Trieste. It opened in 1956 and is considered the first Italian cafe on the West Coast. Here too the intellectuals of the Beat Generation would gather and many artists continue to frequent it assiduously (it was here that Francis Ford Coppola wrote the screenplay for The Godfather).

A more recent but no less unique and characteristic cafe is the Specs Twelve Adler Adler Museum Cafe, which opened in 1968 and is known for its particular clientele (legends speak of strippers and sailors, in addition to intellectuals), its unusual decor (which includes a petrified walrus penis bone), and the spontaneity of the baristas (they may decide not to serve you for any reason!).

Did you ever expect to find a Genoese bakery on the corner of Washington Square Park? I am referring to Liguria Bakery, founded in 1911 by Ambrogio Soracco, who arrived a few years earlier in San Francisco from Chiavari.

Across the street from Liguria Bakery, there is Mama’s, one of the most popular places in San Francisco for breakfast (but get ready to wait in line!). Instead, the North Beach Restaurant enjoys a good reputation in the city for a classy dinner.

If you are looking for more good restaurants (or if you just want to take a leisurely stroll) head to Green Street. You’ll find another historic venue, the Columbus Cafe, founded in 1936, where you’ll find more than 20 different types of draught beers, and Gino e Carlo, an informal pub where you can have a slice of pizza or play a game of pool with patrons.

Barbary Coast

barbary coast san franciscoThe 1906 earthquake wiped out all evidence of the old red light district. However, some of the oldest buildings in the city dating back to the reconstruction are located in this area.

There are some establishments that maintain the spirit of Barbary Coast at the intersection of Columbus Ave and Broadway. Here there are nightclubs and strip clubs such as Condor Club, Big Al’s, and Roaring Twenties, while turning on Grant Avenue, you’ll come across The Saloon, the oldest live music venue still in operation (it opened in 1861).

Chinatown

what to do in north beach Many tend to incorporate Chinatown, or at least some parts of it, into North Beach. Indeed the boundaries between the two neighborhoods are rather blurred and, given the proximity, it is a good idea to take the opportunity to visit them both.

To find out more information about Chinatown, you can read our in-depth article here.

Churches, squares, and buildings

Inside the neighborhood you’ll find recognizable churches, squares, and buildings that are important to the city:

  • Columbus Tower / Sentinel Building: An elegant historic green building dating back to 1907 at the crossroads between Columbus Avenue, Kearny Street, and Jackson Street. Just like the Transamerica Pyramid, this is a landmark of the city and those visiting North Beach should take a picture of it.
  • Washington Square Park: It is one of the three oldest parks in the city and, on a sunny day, it is full of activities (there are dozens of Chinese who practice tai chi on the lawn). Around the park, there are several cafes and restaurants (some already mentioned above).
  • Saints Peter and Paul Church: Built in 1924, it has been used in many movies and is known as “the Italian cathedral of the West”. It is a church where the Italian-American community in the neighborhood gathers. The church is located in Washington Square Park.
  • National Shrine of St. Francis of Assisi: Inaugurated as a Catholic parish church in 1849, it suffered extensive damage in the 1906 earthquake. The outer walls, the only ones to have been saved, were reused for reconstruction in 1919.

Viewpoints

North Beach’s main vista point is undoubtedly Coit Tower, the observation tower on Telegraph Hill. You can get there in a variety of ways but the most fascinating way to reach it is to walk up the Filbert Steps or the Greenwich Steps, steps alongside beautiful private gardens and homes. This area is an interesting cross-section of residential life in San Francisco. You can read more in our article on Coit Tower.

Where to Stay in North Beach

where to stay in north beachAround Broadway and Columbus, you can find some accommodations, but actually, North Beach does not have many hotels. Unless you don’t have any specific needs, you can look in the recommended neighborhoods for accommodations in San Francisco. If you want to stay overnight in the neighborhood where Kerouac and his friends used to hang out, I suggest you look on Booking.com.

Our tips for finding accommodations in San Francisco


Our Tip:
Looking for accommodations for your trip from California to other parts of the Southwest? Read our guide that contains reviews of hotels and strategic tips for finding accommodations near major attractions: Where to Stay: Our Tips for the SouthWest Area

Warning: Operating hours can change and closures for extraordinary events can occur, so we strongly suggest to check the venues official websites.

lorenzo puliti
lorenzo puliti

I am fascinated by the wonders of the world I never tire of going in search of them.

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