Nestled on the gentle cliffs of the Monterey Peninsula, Carmel-by-the-Sea (or more simply Carmel) is a unique gem when compared to other American cities. It is famous for its clean streets, chic shops, fairytale houses, its beautiful Mission, notable art culture, a pristine beach, and astronomical real estate prices.
One thing that is unique about Carmel-by-the-Sea is that here you won’t find street addresses, street lamps, mailboxes, or parking meters. They have been officially banned!
Located on the Monterey Peninsula, Carmel lends itself very well as an intermediate stop on a road trip in California, especially if you’ve decided to drive along the coast on Highway 1, one of the most beautiful scenic drives in California, or if you want to drive from Monterey to Yosemite, which we’ve already talked about in another post.
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Where it is located and how to get there
Carmel is located along the coast of California within the Monterey Peninsula, north of Big Sur and south of Monterey and San Francisco. The most scenic way to reach it is by traveling along the Pacific Coast Highway.
Here are the travel times from major locations in California.
- San Francisco: about 2 hours
- Santa Cruz: about 1 hour
- Los Angeles: 5 and a half hours via the inland route. If you want to travel along the coast, follow the directions we provided in our article from Los Angeles to San Francisco.
- Santa Barbara: at least 4 hours via the inland route, add at least another 2 hours if you want to travel along the coast.
Carmel: General Information and City History
The city is really small, so much so that it can be easily visited on foot, however, during the walk you will be attracted by numerous cafes, art galleries, shops, and restaurants. In the evening, join the many tourists who gather on Carmel’s beautiful beach to admire the changing colors of the sky at sunset.
You can enjoy most of the city on foot, but to explore the coast you will need to drive a car (or rent it). In case you rent a car, keep in mind that parking is generally free for the first 2 hours. Otherwise, you can park at the Carmel Plaza parking garage or in the parking lots that hotels provide for their guests (although there may not be many spaces).
Sometimes it may be a good idea to park in the free spaces on Scenic Road (a picturesque road that runs along the beach).
The history of the city is deeply intertwined with the construction of Spanish missions along the coast of California. The origins of Carmel date back to 1770 when the Spanish explorer and missionary Junípero Serra began the construction of Mission San Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo on the outskirts of the present-day city.
This network of missions, later known as the Camino Real, aimed to convert the local indigenous people to Christianity and expand Spanish influence in the region.
In 1821, when Mexico gained independence from Spain, the entire area became part of the new Mexican state, and in 1833, all the lands belonging to the Mission were secularized. The Mexican government feared that the influence of the missions, which had remained loyal to the Spanish Catholic Church, could undermine its control over the region.
Over the following decades, Carmel remained little more than an agricultural village, with a modest population and slow growth.
In 1848, after the end of the Mexican-American War and the signing of the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, the entire region became part of the United States of America. It was not until the late 19th century that the city began to experience a rebirth when the natural beauty of the region and its mild climate attracted the attention and interest of artists and writers.
In 1905, former art teacher Elsie Allen founded the Carmel Arts and Crafts Club with the aim of bringing together a community of artists to promote the art and craftsmanship of the city. In the following years, Carmel became a vibrant artistic community, with a large number of art galleries, studios, and workshops. Renowned artists such as Mary Austin, Armin Hansen, E. Charlton Fortune, and Jack London settled in Carmel and contributed to its cultural development.
One of the world’s most famous architects, Frank Lloyd Wright, designed the Clinton Walker House here in 1949. This residence represents a significant example of Wright’s organic architecture, harmoniously blending with the surrounding environment.
Best Things to Do in Carmel
Here is a selection of the most important attractions in the city:
Mission San Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo
Also known simply as Carmel Mission, it is undoubtedly the most popular and important attraction in the city.
The actual construction of Carmel Mission began in 1770 when Junípero Serra laid the first stone for the church. However, the mission was officially dedicated only on August 24, 1771. Its strategic location on the central coast of California allowed the mission to play a vital role in the Spanish colonization process.
The mission served as a place where the friars, led by Junípero Serra (who was canonized as a saint in 2015), sought to convert the local indigenous people to the Catholic faith by encouraging them to live near the mission and teaching them agriculture, crafts, and the Spanish language.
During its heyday, Carmel Mission had a vast expanse of agricultural land that included vineyards, cultivated fields, and livestock.
After the secularization of the missions in 1834 mandated by the Mexican government, Carmel Mission gradually lost its importance and fell into ruins. Over the years, the church and other mission buildings, now abandoned, suffered collapses and became mostly unusable. It was not until the annexation to the United States in 1848 that restoration work began on the entire compound.
Today, visitors can explore the church, the outdoor gardens, and the interior spaces of the mission, which have been turned into a museum that retraces the stages of the history and life of San Junípero Serra, as well as the mission itself.
The museum and outdoor areas are open at the following times:
- Monday and Tuesday: closed
- Wednesday and Thursday: 10:00 AM to 4:00 PM
- Friday and Saturday: 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM
- Sunday: 11:30 AM to 5:00 PM
The ticket prices are $13 for adults, $10 for seniors aged 65 and over, and $7 for children aged 7 to 17; children under 7 enter for free.
Please note that this is still an active Catholic church, so in addition to necessary respect, access to certain areas may be restricted due to religious needs.
Point Lobos State Natural Reserve
It is a state park in California located south of Carmel along Highway 1. The park is a rocky promontory overlooking the Pacific Ocean with large kelp forests, beautiful trails, and small coves (if you can withstand the temperatures, you can even take a swim). Occasionally, you may even spot some whales offshore.
It is a perfect place for nature and photography enthusiasts who will find stunning landscapes to capture. To learn more about this location, I invite you to read our in-depth article dedicated to Point Lobos.
Ocean Avenue, Clinton Walker House, and other attractions.
Ocean Avenue, connecting Highway 1 to the coastline, is one of the most famous streets in Carmel-by-the-Sea, renowned for its beauty and the picturesque character of the buildings that line it. Here you can find numerous shops, restaurants, art galleries, and boutiques. Taking a stroll along this street is a must to experience the unique atmosphere of the city.
Within the area bounded by Ocean Avenue, Junipero Street, 5th Avenue, and Santa Rita Street, you can also find what are known as the Fairytale Cottages—homes that seem to have come straight out of a fairy tale. So, get your camera ready because you will certainly capture memorable photos in this area.
Moving on to historic homes and important architectural works, it is worth noting that in Carmel you can find:
- Tor House (26304 Ocean View Ave, Carmel Point, just south of Carmel Village): The famous stone house of poet Robinson Jeffers, known for its unique and captivating architecture reminiscent of the medieval style. The house is surrounded by a lovely garden and offers panoramic ocean views. To visit, guided tours (starting at $15 for adults) are required and are only available on Saturdays at 10:00 AM, 11:00 AM, 12:00 PM, and 1:00 PM.
- Clinton Walker House (26336 Scenic Rd): This residence overlooking the ocean was designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. It is not open to the public, but it can be admired from the outside to appreciate its distinctive style and integration with the surrounding environment.
- Gravity Garden (1 Fern Canyon Road, near Carmel Highlands General Store): Artist Jim Needham created a garden of rock sculptures stacked on top of each other without the use of adhesive material, bolts, or support structures. Some of the sculptures are up to 9 feet tall.
17 Mile Drive
It is a scenic coastal road with breathtaking views of the ocean that stretches between Pacific Grove and Pebble Beach. Along the 17-Mile Drive, you can also admire a series of incredible natural attractions and points of interest. These include famous beaches such as Pebble Beach, Spanish Bay, and Carmel Beach, with their white sands and crystal-clear blue waters.
You can stop at numerous viewpoints, such as the Lone Cypress, where an iconic cypress tree grows on a rocky outcrop.
To drive along the 17-Mile Drive, there is a fee of $11.75. This fee is refundable if you spend at least $35 in one of the restaurants within the Pebble Beach Resorts (excluding the Pebble Beach Market). Access to the road is allowed from sunrise to sunset. Motorcycles are not allowed, but cycling along the drive is free of charge.
If you are interested in exploring it on an electric bike through a guided tour, you can check out the link below.
17-Mile Drive Guided E-Bike Tour
The Beaches of Carmel
Speaking of a charming coastal town like Carmel, we cannot overlook its beaches as one of the main things to visit when planning an itinerary in the city.
- Carmel Beach: a free beach with white sand and breathtaking views, stretching 1.5 miles between Point Lobos and Pebble Beach.
- Carmel River State Beach: a cove of azure waters nestled in a bird sanctuary, featuring soft white sand and cliffs dotted with cypress trees. The tides can be rather dangerous, so swimming may not be the best idea.
Where to Stay in Carmel
You can also visit the town while staying overnight in a hotel in nearby Monterey, but if you prefer o look for accommodations in Carmel, here are 3 recommendations:
- Carmel Mission Inn, 3665 Rio Road
- Carmel Valley Ranch, One Old Ranch Road
- Stillwell Hotel, San Carlos Street & 5th Avenue
Where to Eat in Carmel
These are 2 restaurants I recommend:
La Bicyclette (Dolores & 7th): This European-inspired bistro delights visitors with its “countryside” cuisine crafted from local ingredients and artisanal skill, blending tradition and creativity in perfect harmony.
Mission Ranch: A place that serves high-end food, and has a breathtaking view of the ocean. A piano bar brightens the atmosphere during the weekend. This is a very popular place for Sunday brunch.
Hi Lorenzo, sadly Em Le’s Old Carmel Restaurant is permanently closed after the COVID pandemic 🙁
Hello Luigi, thank you for your feedback.