Of all the memories I have from my journey through the cities, parks and landscapes of the West Coast, there is one that stands out. I can still clearly see the vision of Mono Lake in the distance. I use the word “vision”, because it happened in a totally unexpected way. It was a very peculiar experience for me when, out of the blue, this mirage appeared before my eyes. Mono Lake is surreal, dreamlike, and sacred all at the same time and is surrounded by an aura that had an esoteric, unattainable, and superhuman beauty.
But let me start from the beginning. I was driving along the last stretch of Tioga Road after spending the morning in Yosemite National Park, and I was still awestruck by the wonders I had seen along the way and I was very hungry. The last part of the road was downhill and, after a series of bends, my wife and I were confronted – in the distance – by the cold blue-gray waters of Mono Lake.
We were astonished, since it was strikingly different from the landscapes we had traveled through earlier in the day (you know, in America the landscapes are constantly changing) and, to quell our bewilderment, we stopped to eat and had phenomenal hamburgers at the nearby restaurant Whoa Nellie Deli, located at the gas station where we also stopped for gas.
From the gas station we drove to Vista Point, which sits on a small hill that gives you an even better view of this spectacular lake. However, we were on a very tight schedule. We still had an hour of driving to reach Bodie ghost town, so we only made a brief stop there and got right back on the road. One the way to Bodie, the road passed through a small town called Lee Vining and then ran along Mono Lake for 3 miles. We made a few stops to observe the strange limestone formations on the surface of the lake. The sun was setting and the colors of the sunset were incredible.
This was my travel experience. Now it is time to give you some more information about Mono Lake and recommendations for planning a visit.
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History and Geology of Mono Lake
Mono Lake (which we had already quickly talked about in our article about the unusual attractions along the West Coast), is the second oldest alkaline lake of volcanic origin in North America and it has a very high saline concentration. The most astounding thing about this lake is the number of strange saline concretions caused by the presence of carbonate ions and calcium in the water, which comes from the springs. The tufa towers that rise vertically on the shores and islands in the middle of the lake (Pahoa Island and Negit Island) evoke the same eerie atmosphere of Friedrich’s painting The Sea of Ice.
The area around the lake is full of bizarre limestone formations that create a lunar landscape. This must be the reason why Pink Floyd (who are familiar with the moon…), chose this landscape for the artwork of Wish You Were Here.
In 1941, a reservoir was built (Mono Basin) and the Los Angeles Department of Water diverted the main tributaries of Mono Lake to the city’s new aqueduct. This operation raised the salinity level of the lake by depriving it of fresh water from the tributaries and consequently endangering the delicate ecosystem of the lake. On the other hand, because the water level became lower, the splendid fortified tufa citadels miraculously emerged and make Mono Lake unique still today.
In response to the drastic environmental consequences of diverting the fresh water, in order to preserve the vulnerable fauna (especially the California seagulls and phalaropes) that breed in this delicate ecosystem, it was necessary to create the Mono Lake Committee, which aims to defend the territory around Mono Lake and also devotes itself to research and organizing guided tours.
Mono Lake: South Tufa Area and Other Trails
Objectively speaking, due to its intermediate location between Yosemite and Death Valley, Mono Lake is not a common stop on West Coast tours. Travelers usually just opt to look at it from afar or may choose to stop at a vista point to enjoy the view of the lake. However, it’s not uncommon for travelers seeking accommodations near Yosemite in Lee Vining (or Mammoth Lakes), so that they can visit Bodie and then head to one of the major parks.
If that is the case, making time to visit Mono Lake might be a very good choice. Here’s how to get to the most beautiful viewpoints:
- After passing Lee Vining, turn right when you see the sign for the Mono Basin National Forest Scenic Area. You can go on one of the trails to reach the shore of the lake and observe some of the salt formations;
- Head north on US-395 N for another 5 miles and reach the area called Mono Lake County Park. Here too you can go on a trail, in this case, a footbridge surrounded by verdant nature that ends near the lakeshore, where you will find bizarre pillars of salt of all shapes and sizes and picnic areas;
- If you drive south of Lee Vining on US-395 for 8 miles, you will arrive at a junction with the Mono Lake Basin Road. Turn onto Mono Lake Basin Road and continue to the South Tufa Area. You will know when you have arrived when you see a parking lot where you can take a short loop trail (entrance fee is $3) that reaches a surreal area of the shore where you will see the most beautiful tufa towers at Mono Lake.
Guided Tours of Mono Lake
The Mono Lake Committee organizes guided tours along the routes described above and in the summer, the committee offers canoe or kayak tours to get closer to the two islands and see the most splendid tufa castles of the lake up close.
For more information on the tour season and schedules, please visit the official website page.
Where to Stay near Mono Lake
As we have already mentioned, the most strategic city where to stay when you visit Mono Lake (and Bodie) is Lee Vining, where you can visit the Mono Lake Committee Information Center & Bookstore and find resources and learn more about the history, geology, and fauna of the lake.
