Anyone who has traveled on Interstate 15 between Barstow and Las Vegas has surely noticed with enormous astonishment (and a moment of bewilderment) the sign for “Zzyzx Road,” which has become a real tourist attraction, prompting many people to stop by the roadside to photograph it. But what is it all about? Does a place called Zzyzx really exist? Or is it a joke?
Map
How To Get There
It is not difficult to get to Zzyzx: you will have to follow the famous sign, which corresponds to Exit 239 on Interstate 15. Here are the coordinates. From here, you will need to travel about 4.35 miles on a mostly paved road, skirting the fascinating expanse of Soda Lake, very similar to the famous Badwater Basin in Death Valley. The last stretch of the road is on a dirt path, so you’ll need to be cautious. But what is Zzyzx? What is its history? Don’t miss the next paragraphs to find out.
History of Zzyzx
Well, let’s start by saying that no, it’s not a joke. Zzyzx was, or perhaps we should say, used to be a real tourist destination, and a quite famous one at that. Initially known as Soda Springs and located near a large dried-up salt lake called Soda Lake, this charming oasis in the desert was renamed “Zzyzx” by the Methodist preacher, radio speaker, and self-proclaimed doctor, Curtis Springer.
In the 1940s, this ambiguous character obtained permission to extract minerals from a 12,000-acre plot of land in the Mojave Desert. Although the permit he obtained did not make Springer the owner of the area, in 1944, he still founded the Zzyzx Mineral Springs and Health Spa.
Yes, “Zzyzx” was the actual name of his luxurious castle/sanctuary/clinic complete with a library, goat farm, pool, artificial lake, and hot spring. Springer had coined a neologism, which he believed would be the last word in the English dictionary. He was convinced that he would have the “last word in health.”
During his radio programs, Springer portrayed his resort as an ideal and utopian place to live healthily, both physically and spiritually. He promised his followers miraculous cures, advertising, among other things, his Mo-Hair, a mud and salt lotion from the nearby lake claiming to cure baldness, and a Delightful Antediluvian Desert Tea, which could prolong life. And the hot springs? The original Soda Springs wasn’t actually a hot spring, but Springer ingeniously installed a heat pump system to give the illusion of it being one.
People flocked in masses, but Springer’s game couldn’t last long: complaints from deceived patients started pouring in, especially from bald individuals who, after applying Mo-Hair, experienced bleeding scalps and no sign of hair growth. Springer reassured them, saying that the bleeding was proof that the scalp was starting to regenerate underneath the skin.
In addition to numerous fraud complaints, attempts to sell the adjacent land (of which, we must remember, he wasn’t even the owner!) and various cases of tax evasion alerted the government, which, after an investigation, evicted Springer and his followers in 1974. There was a trial that ended with Springer being sentenced to 60 days in jail for false advertising: the fake doctor, famously known as “The King of Quacks,” served his sentence in prison and then moved to Las Vegas, where he passed away in 1985.
Zzyzx at the Present Day
Zzyzx is not a ghost town. Today, the old resort’s premises host the Desert Studies Center of California State University, which took over the area in 1976. The location of this oasis, situated in San Bernardino County within the boundaries of the Mojave National Preserve, is ideal for studying desert environments. The activity of the research center has ensured that the structures of the Zzyzx Mineral Springs and Health Spa did not fall into disuse, thanks in part to the care of the custodian, Rob Fulton, who was the sole resident of Zzyzx for many years until his unfortunate passing in an accident in 2018.
The conservation work by the research center is undoubtedly a positive development. However, for those of us who love ghost towns, we must acknowledge that much of the area is now private, and unfortunately, it is not possible to explore and see what remains of the resort. In particular, the ruins of the pool are in an area inaccessible to the public. It’s worth noting that until a few years ago, they were freely visitable.
Things to See
However, there is still something that can be seen! The only area that can be visited for free and unrestricted at Zzyzx is the artificial lake, Lake Tuendae, around which a nature trail maintained by the National Park Service extends. Walking along the trail, you will enjoy beautiful views of the nearby Soda Lake and observe the typical vegetation of desert oases all around. Lake Tuendae is home to some desert Mojave species, such as the American coot and the endangered Mohave tui chub fish.
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Walking around here can give you an idea of the idyllic setting in which the patients of the charlatan Springer once stayed, and some informative panels will help you learn more about this history. You can walk along the entire perimeter of the lake, which runs alongside the old Boulevard of Dreams, the road that effectively marks the boundary between the visitable area and the property of the research center. Among the most striking things, you will see the remains of a small boat and a swing that, given the abandoned state of the area, has a somewhat apocalyptic feel.
WARNING: Access to all other areas of the site is not permitted except with a permit or during events organized by the University. On-site, you will find some signs indicating the path to Lake Tuendae.
As you may have guessed, unless you are a student at the University, you won’t be able to stay overnight at Zzyzx, nor are there any bars or restaurants to grab a meal. In the nearby town of Baker, you’ll find a couple of motels and a variety of chain fast-food restaurants. However, consider making a kitschy pit stop at Alien Fresh Jerky (72302 Baker Blvd), a sort of extraterrestrial-themed supermarket where you can find a wide selection of beef jerky, snacks, and spicy sauces. Of course, if you are looking for more lodging and dining options, you will find a wider selection in Barstow (if you are heading towards California) or Las Vegas.Places To Stay
